The remainder of whatever needs to be assembled- Destiny Gundam’s weapons.
I was a bit horrified to see that the Arondight is practically monochrome so I tried to do it justice by painting in the handle with dark gray (it is supposed to be black but I find that too contrasting of a color with the light blue).
The launcher was also a long green stick so I just painted the tip dark gray. Very subtle but I do like the difference. Hey, that’s how my style have always been- subtlety.
Compare the difference.
I’m not certain about what color the boomerang effect parts should be but I painted the “Shining Finger” Palma Faciona beam in its intended clear blue.
And of course, beams must be red!
All that’s left is the detailing and the topcoat. Just waiting for the weather to clear up… which should be soon I think.
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January 21, 2011 at 9:51 AM
lookin good z
the poses you can do this this gundam are soso but it looks sexy with the wings in
January 21, 2011 at 3:59 PM
Atom… clearly you do not know Z if you think he can’t make awesome poses… he can even make a HG looks stunning.
January 21, 2011 at 5:16 PM
That’s right! Atom, you should check the pictures of his High Grade kits…
January 21, 2011 at 8:20 PM
highly agree with the two!
January 22, 2011 at 1:28 AM
I’m not so sure about that… but we’ll see ^^;.
January 24, 2011 at 12:28 AM
I guess Atom was just testing Z…
January 21, 2011 at 10:04 AM
that is a lot of “ZAFT” signs again on the water decal, much more similar like the force impulse.
the blast blue color effects are very good work.
can’t wait on the full review, :)
January 21, 2011 at 11:57 AM
the boomerang effect parts should stay clear so it looks like he’s throwing it. it would look more natural if you ask me. but thats just my opinion.
January 21, 2011 at 12:46 PM
How did you painted the blue effect parts? Could you give a detailed explanation?
January 22, 2011 at 1:19 AM
Dip brush in blue paint and brush away?
January 24, 2011 at 4:28 AM
Well, there are areas where the clear blue is “darker”, so I thought you needed something else. Then it will get this effect by using type of clear blue?
January 21, 2011 at 3:32 PM
Looks great. I like the changes to the sword and launcher. Maybe I will do something like that with my destiny too. The blue effect parts are also nice. Will you also do something with the wing effect parts?
Oh by the way, a quick question about topcoat. You use Mr. Hobby topcoat, right? Are there other manufacturers that make topcoat? Mr. Hobbys stuff isn’t available here but Tamiya is. They have something that has a very similar description to topcoat but I’m not really sure if it is the same stuff.
This would be it:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=85080
January 22, 2011 at 1:19 AM
No, I won’t be touching the wings. Too delicate and important for me to mess around with.
Yes, that is pretty much Tamiya’s topcoat. I have their semi-gloss just to test things out. Better to just stick with flat unless you like glossy things.
January 21, 2011 at 4:06 PM
Not gonna paint the red triangles on the weapons?
January 22, 2011 at 1:18 AM
nah.
January 21, 2011 at 4:10 PM
lol funny that u posted this today cuz i just got my mg destiny EBM right out next to me :3
January 22, 2011 at 1:17 AM
Have fun with it.
January 21, 2011 at 6:53 PM
How did you fix the nub marks for the chrome plated parts?
January 22, 2011 at 1:17 AM
Using the mekki silver marker… it’s about a 80% fix but better than nothing.
January 21, 2011 at 7:00 PM
how i envy you!!!!!! still have the time to build models and blog… my school work doesnt allow me to D=
January 22, 2011 at 1:16 AM
I… actually don’t have the time. I’m sacrificing sleep for this ^^;
January 21, 2011 at 7:39 PM
clearly shows that minimum effort can give you big results :D
January 22, 2011 at 1:17 AM
“minimum effort”… that’s my way of gunpla xD.
January 21, 2011 at 10:19 PM
By the way, I’ve always meant to ask this but, what’s the difference between Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter?
I use Mr. Mark Setter only for decals since I want them to SET, but what would I need Mr. Mark Softer for? To soften them up to remove decals?
January 21, 2011 at 11:02 PM
i was gonna ask about these.
from what i heard, mark softer softens up the decals so they become more flexible and allow them to go around curves/corners/grooves/etc much more easily so you don’t have to force them on weird spots and break them. mark setter is as you said, to set the decal into the plastic. what i heard was that they are basically the same thing, but setter is just a more concentrate/stronger version of the softer, but im not really sure, which is why i was going to ask about it.
both of them apparently dissolve the decal material but to different degrees. softer is just enough to soften it while setter makes it fuse with the plastic. so it seems to me that you can create your own softer by diluting setter, is that correct?
someone please enlighten me, i’d like to know
i’ve also been wondering whether setter and softer works on dry decals at all, because i know they are specifically made for water decals and i heard they have minimal effect on clear stickers.
January 22, 2011 at 1:16 AM
It’s almost like what PBS said above but I won’t give an answer until I’ve personally use it myself to see the effects of it. This way I can give you a fair answer and probably be able to answer more questions if you have any.
January 22, 2011 at 5:21 AM
nice work on the effect parts, especially the “palmure” finger effect. Subtle painting of parts is definitely MORE better the plain black lines everywhere. When topacoated, I bet that it will look like a painted one, hahaha
January 22, 2011 at 6:35 PM
Glad you finally started on the Destiny EBM. It’s personally one of my favorite gundams. I also got a question to something that recently happened to me, after finally finishing my Mg Freedom i went to top coat it with tamiya clear top coat and after letting it dry the armor started to turn white, Any idea as to why this happen?
January 23, 2011 at 7:19 AM
that is what you called “frosting”. If you sparyed it too thin or if the weather is cold, that will be the result. My advice will be either remove the topcoat and start it over using very thin passes in warm temperatures. And if you decaled the part, spray it with gloss forst for sealing and to prevent th topcoat from eating it.
January 24, 2011 at 1:20 AM
What nagisa said.
This is why I refuse to topcoat my models in this cold weather.
January 24, 2011 at 6:21 PM
Although if it happens to decals alcohol works to eliminate the fogging
January 22, 2011 at 10:36 PM
Great work as usual ^^
is that a water-slide decal Z?
January 24, 2011 at 1:18 AM
yes
January 23, 2011 at 12:20 AM
hey Z, why is the shield so small?
January 24, 2011 at 1:18 AM
Because the other weapons are very long so it looks small.
January 24, 2011 at 3:01 AM
Z, sorry but please finish this review cuz I just bought MG Destiny EBM
January 24, 2011 at 4:00 PM
Bring me one warm sunny day and I will :)
January 24, 2011 at 5:38 AM
A little warning there Z. Take care whilst posing as the handle for the launcher is very fragile and mine broke very easily.
Looking forward to a full review :)
January 24, 2011 at 4:00 PM
It certainly feels that way so I’ll keep that in mind.
January 24, 2011 at 4:06 PM
Hell, it can apply to any model or GFF; I managed to screw up on disconnecting my GFF Wing’s buster rifle from it’s hand and the trigger finger part disconnected. That was a few months ago, and the fact my room is carpeted doesn’t help things.
January 30, 2011 at 12:51 AM
i have just started to build gundams.. i have two so far a shin musha one(he has a shotgun and a samuari sword) as well as the seed one with the weapons you painted here. I LOVE how they look with all the detail with the gray and black lines in the groves and stuff… any help for me to start painting lines?? it looks amazing!! :D
February 5, 2011 at 12:04 AM
Just grab a Gundam panel line marker and tackle away!