Master Grade

87 Responses to “Master Grade”

  1. esdeeef Says:

    all yours Gundam models are awesome..cool..I have a question.I want to know what is the deferent between MG model and HG model?I hope u can answer it.thx

    • sniperrifle Says:

      but PG=Perfect Grade is even better, coz it has the most accurate little detail and even has fully moveable parts like the GN drive with LEDs, and is about # meters tall coz its 1:60 scale and costs a lot

  2. Z Says:

    Esdeeef, MG= Master Grade, HG= High Grade. MG models are more sophisticated (inner skeleton) and requires more time and patience to build than HG models. MG models are usually more expensive, bigger (but same scale as HG which is 1/100), but look a lot better and has more articulations. This is the broadest answer I can come up with. Hope that helps. ^^;

  3. Chris Says:

    Ermm….HG is usually 1/144 scale.

  4. Z Says:

    Oh yea… HG also comes in 1/144. I just collect 1/100 so I just group them together as “HG” for the sake of convenience.

  5. takara Says:

    I can’t wait to see you modelled the Sinanju of KA version. It looks awesome, at least for now.

  6. Z Says:

    I feel demotivated to build it as seeing the loads and loads of decals ^^;

  7. AstrayP03 Says:

    MG is slimmer too… put an MG strike and a HG 1/100 Strike together and u’ll notice that the HG counterpart is FAT FAT FAT!

  8. john Says:

    hey Z do you have any 8th MS team models and also whats your favorite gundam series mine is the 8th MS team i like the Ez8 gundam cause its a RX-79(G) that was customized for the team commander after his gundam was damaged in battle

  9. Z Says:

    Nope, their MG models are quite old so I’ll wait for their Ver 2.0 instead if Bandai ever decides to make them.

  10. john Says:

    thats cool im gonna get the old ones any way out of love for the simplistic design and if and when the ver 2.0s come out ill get them too

  11. john Says:

    just realized you didnt answer my other question
    whats your favorite gundam series if you dont have one you like the most thats understandable theres so many its hard too choose

  12. Jack Da Ripper Says:

    I love Master Grade Gundams I just wish they would release the rest of the endless waltz Gundams in a master grade format , I am demotivated to buy the HG ones.

  13. Z Says:

    oh, I’m definitely in for a MG Deathscythe Hell Custom :D

    John, oops… missed your comment ^^;. You’re right. I actually don’t have a favorite Gundam series but not because there’s so many to choose from. Some are just “cool” at best while some outright suck.

  14. Sabre Says:

    I wonder if the new OO series will release the MG grade soon. The 1/100 no grade is already so good…

  15. Passerby Says:

    man, you are one awesome modeller. You should buy PG kits, i think you won’t have any difficulties with those

  16. Lelouch Says:

    I just made my own blog at wordpress! I just finished up a review of the MG Strike, and I plan to put in more photos. Cheak it out! If you have any advice on how to make it betta, plz contact me!

    http://www.gundamhq.wordpress.com

  17. Zro Says:

    Hey Z! The Stamen is looking great! Can you tell me how you work on a Gundam’s eyes, cause I know you don’t use the foil eyes.

  18. AceWhatever Says:

    Why can’t I post?!

  19. AceWhatever Says:

    Finally it worked! For some reason I’ve been unable to post comments on the blog for a few days now. What’s up with that?

  20. Z Says:

    Zro, actually the eyes are the only part that I do use the foil stickers for ^^;

    Acewhatever, been trying to spam? jk xD. That is strange because none of your posts have been filtered or anything.

  21. Zro Says:

    Ah, irony! I guess it was someone else I saw that doesn’t use the foil sticker. Either way, thanks for the feedback!

  22. Tommy Says:

    Anyway are there any chance of an upcoming new Master Grade?

  23. kkte Says:

    Its a let down that you dont have cross bone X1 full cloth. My friend just bought one yesterday!

  24. Z Says:

    I do have one… I just haven’t build it.

  25. kkte Says:

    Oh i see! Looking foward to see it!

  26. kkte Says:

    Guys, which one is better? The MG kamfer or crossbone version k.a?

  27. kkte Says:

    …No body is replying=.=. Is everyone busy or i am ignored=.=?

  28. Z Says:

    whoops… more like your first question just got buried under many other comments (that tends to happen sometimes ^^;). I wish I can answer you but I have neither. I heard way too many complaints about the Crossbone but on the other hand, the kampfer is pretty old but looks impressive nonetheless (it just can’t do much beside standing there).

  29. kkte Says:

    So you mean the articulation of the kampfer sucks?

  30. eighteleven Says:

    Hello Z, I’ve been reading this site for quite a while. Love all your work especially the master grades(special mention to the sinanju LOL). Keep up the good work man. You even inspired me to open up my own wordpress just for gundams XD LOL I’ve just started collecting gundams. Anyway, can I link your wordpress? Hope you don’t mind =)

  31. Wolfenstein Says:

    Wow Nu Gundam is a beast. Those die cast parts are insanely strong. Almost unreal how it holds up the cannons.

    I’m looking to plan my next project, how much did you buy the Sinanju kit for? People are starting to charge ridiculously high prices and it’s going out of stock everywhere. I just don’t want to find my self paying 90$ for it in two months….

  32. Z Says:

    kkte, guess you can put it that way. I mean..it was made during the time when articulation wasn’t emphasized.

    811, sure… what’s your blog? ^^

    wolfenstein, somewhere around almost 70-ish? 5600 yen (I think) with EMS shipping with another model ^^;

  33. melicas Says:

    hey, since you dont have a review for the hi nu mg, is it worth the expensive price tag it has? thanks! im debating whether to get it or not, becuase all the ones i have seen are painted and i cant paint

  34. Siroh32 Says:

    I have a feeling he could best answer that when he finishes building it. Your best bet would be to ask someone else who might have built it. I would personally wait and have the Hi-Nu’s HGUC counterpart released and wait for someone to be able to compare the two. There’s also the already-assembled HCM-Pro version to consider.

  35. Z Says:

    Melicas, doesn’t make sense to ask me when I haven’t build it xD. You can ask this guy though, he has a good thorough review: http://beamknight87blog.blogspot.com/2008/07/mg-hi-nu.html

  36. melicas Says:

    never mind, i bought it anyway! lol i gave into my temptation and it turns out to be a awsome model! diffenatly worth the money

  37. Johnny Says:

    Hey Z, love ur work and reviews on all ur Master Grades. Im just wondering if websites that sell gundam models such as Hobbyjapan is reliable. (i go to sum hobbyshop at the cities in aus and they dont hav a huge range of models. luckily found the GP03 Stamen ^^)

  38. Z Says:

    hobbyjapan? as in HLJ? I order stuff from time to time there. They’re pretty reliable even if they do take three days to packaged and actually ship out your item. If you’re referring to the mag, then I have no idea xD.

  39. Johnny Says:

    lol yerh i meant HLJ. thx bro

  40. Draco00 Says:

    Hey, I’m just starting to do a little modeling. I’m wondering what kind of paint did you use for the transparent colors such as the beam saber color and scope.

  41. Draco00 Says:

    Also one more thing I forgot to mention. What is the best way to do panel lines? Also will it differ in straight build and after paint?

  42. ercjohn Says:

    @draco00
    yes it will differ a lot though both are OOB builds….. i suggest you paint your models…… and for the clear parts use clear paint… the ones from tamiya…. XD

  43. Z Says:

    Draco, Tamiya clear colors for the transparent parts. The best way to do panel lines is whichever way you prefer the best. Be it wash, Gundam marker, or pencil. And yes it will differ because panel lining on paint gives the ink (if using g-markers) a more solid line and harder to clean.

  44. Draco00 Says:

    Thanks ercjohn and Z. So, Z which do you prefer?

  45. Z Says:

    I don’t really paint my parts and the parts that I do paint don’t really need panel lines soooo… xD

  46. ChogokinZetto Says:

    You planning on reviewing the new Exia anytime soon? (normal or Ignition)

  47. jeremiahninobreyno Says:

    hey men what is your secret in taking pictures of your gundams it is so clear whats is your secret men
    i only have nikon d80 men pls tell what is your secret pls

  48. shadowfox Says:

    what mg are you going to build next?

  49. Z Says:

    who knows… ^^

  50. lockheart Says:

    is the mg exia review finished??????

  51. xxlelouchxx67 Says:

    Yeah! Where’s MG Exia?! I already got mine done and I got it just last week! (well I guess you lead a tougher *cough* wayyy tougher life than me…)

    But I still wanna see the review…soon…and I believe that you mentioned it’s left arm and/or leg died…?

  52. lolz Says:

    i’m planning to get a 1/100 MG what should i get? turn a or force impulse?

  53. Z Says:

    Between those two…. choose the design you like best. You can’t go wrong with either model…

  54. lolz Says:

    thx for the advice. i’ll go for the turn a

  55. EXkurogane Says:

    YEAH… Got my MG Astray Blue… Includes the adaptor Prize Item…

  56. ChaosAgent Says:

    hey just like to say awesome site i was wondering which mg impulse you believe is a better buy/model being similar and all

  57. Allen Walker Says:

    sword impulse. that is exactly what Z would say.

  58. ZhuRan Says:

    Just asking…
    Do you have the RX-78GP02a Physalis Gundam MG?

  59. Z Says:

    nope. Don’t have that Gundam. Thought aboout it in the past but now it’s a bit old… ^^;

  60. John Says:

    Dude your collection just keeps growing and growing …..cool

  61. Johnnay Says:

    How’d you get so fine lines with the regular Gundam marker :| I always end up with big flat lines that are hell to clean off :|

  62. Kefka Says:

    @Johnnay I don’t know. I use a sharpie.

  63. ant1ph0n Says:

    @Johnnay

    the gundam marker tip can’t be pushed in too much or it will make the ink come out wider.

    if you don’t wanna use the gundam marker technique, buy some enamel paint + zippo lighter fluid + a soft pointed small brush. when the whole kit is assembled, take apart each respective limb and gloss top coat it.

    dry it thoroughly, then get a glass/ceramic/metal pan/bowl and take a few drops of enamel black paint or whatever panel line color of your choice and mix in zippo lighter fluid or ronsonol fluid. my mix is usually not even close to being viscous. i’d say make it 25%-35% enamel with the rest lighter fluid. swish it around ’til you get a wash that is runny.

    dip the pointed brush in to get a droplet onto the hairs. let that droplet touch any of the grooves/lines and watch it run! [capillary action]

    i’m excited about doing this on my char zaku 2.0 WIP =D

    i tried it on my rx-78 ver ka WIP without gloss top coat, it works fine but i’m sure it’s a lot less work if i had gloss coated it first.

    good luck.

  64. Z Says:

    johnnay, How? By spending way too much time panel lining ^^;. Usually I just wipe it off, but I’ve taken a liking to using a cotton bud to blur the lines. If that doesn’t work, then there is always alcohol and toothpicks…. and if that also doesn’t work, then there is always .3 pencil ^^

    ant1phon, that has got to be the most pro way of panel lining I have ever heard of o_o

  65. Johnnay Says:

    @Kefka: I used a sharpie too back when i couldn’t afford gundam markers :D But mine was the fat nib type, so i had fat lines too.

    @ant1ph0n: much too pro for a noob like me :| it’s ultra hard to get topcoats of any kind where i’m from, so i’ll give it a go when i finally score some gloss topcoat. took me 6 months of hunting just to get mr hobby flat topcoats =_=”

    @Z: guess i’m too impatient since i tend to rush to get the lining done XD thanks for the tips

  66. melissa Says:

    hey, i have a question about painting, i just finished building the PG aile strike and i sprayed a couple pieces with white tamiya paint and it came out looking pretty ugly. it was kind of dull and there was specs everywhere in the paint. is there anyway to correct this?
    should i use primer before and then would this give me a even coat?

  67. Z Says:

    melissa, how old was your paint and how was the environment you painted in? Was it cold/humid/dry? Bad temp tends to mess with paint. I don’t spray paint so I’m not sure how to confidently help you. Maybe someone like Busterbeam or Lupes can tip in something more useful ^^;.

  68. lupes Says:

    Z’s right- if it’s anything like it is here in Ohio where you are, the temperature likely is to blame for the way they came out. If you can, try putting the parts on a paper plate, spraying them outside and then bringing them in to dry, that’s what I do in the winter season.

  69. Radiansyah Says:

    I’m the lurker here and always looking for your updates on review. I must admit your my favourite review style coz you’re awesome on posing your kits. I like it, not like dalong, although dalong’s review is comprehensive but he oftenly try to pose and the result is kinda awkward. but yours, is not awkward at all ^^

  70. Z Says:

    Thanks for the feedback and coming out of lurking ^^. Glad that you like the photos on this blog (the only saving grace for my models) ^^. and yea, we can exchange links! Funny though… since I thought I’ve already added you a long time ago since I remember visiting your blog a few times. You make some pretty clean custom models ^^

  71. Peter Says:

    Hello

    Over the past year I have really gotten into MG/PG Gundams
    I like your collection. Even tho I have a Air Brush with Compressor I am too chicken to use it on an avg Model costing about $60. I keep hearing about this Clear coating as the alternative. And Z I have read your posts on Clear Coating. I have protected my decals with thin coating of nail polish. But I want to move to clear Coating. Do I just spray the stuff on a completed, decaled, panel lined model. Or do I need to disassemble and spray the parts separately

    Thanks

  72. Z Says:

    best to spray over dividual part since then it is more thorough because the outer armor covers bits that might get exposed when you rotate some parts or something.

  73. Zeon_Two_Six Says:

    Ever tried the MG Quebley?

    BTW, try doing the MG Hi-Nu after the PG Strike + Skygrasper!

  74. JQ Says:

    WOW thats a large colection of models. What are you getting next GN-X or Red Frame Astray?

  75. Kitein Says:

    I Was Wondering If You Are Going To Be Doing A Review Of The “1/100 Scale Master Grade Gundam Astray Red Frame Kai”

  76. See To Yu Xiang Says:

    I just gave up playing mg, all of my mgs are either broken or incomplete. It is too expensive, and it keeps on breaking. The cost of one mg here in Singapore can sustain you living on the streets in Singapore for 3 days straight

  77. Exialan Says:

    How did you colloring blade, on exia ignition??
    It’s like a metal or steel color, so shiny…

  78. Lupen Says:

    Hey have you done the MG RX-79(G) yet? I just completed it and it’s a completely straight forward model, but for some reason the legs are so flimsy it’s unable to stand straight up cause its so loose in the thigh joint. I looked over every runner and sections in the manual but i can’t find a solution. You have same problem(if you have it) or hear about that problem?

  79. Serpentfear Says:

    You’re gonna have to do some real work with the Shining Gundam. From my expireince,It’s horrible cause some of the peices a constantly loos fo some reason.


Leave a Reply