the gundam marker tip can’t be pushed in too much or it will make the ink come out wider.
if you don’t wanna use the gundam marker technique, buy some enamel paint + zippo lighter fluid + a soft pointed small brush. when the whole kit is assembled, take apart each respective limb and gloss top coat it.
dry it thoroughly, then get a glass/ceramic/metal pan/bowl and take a few drops of enamel black paint or whatever panel line color of your choice and mix in zippo lighter fluid or ronsonol fluid. my mix is usually not even close to being viscous. i’d say make it 25%-35% enamel with the rest lighter fluid. swish it around ’til you get a wash that is runny.
dip the pointed brush in to get a droplet onto the hairs. let that droplet touch any of the grooves/lines and watch it run! [capillary action]
i’m excited about doing this on my char zaku 2.0 WIP =D
i tried it on my rx-78 ver ka WIP without gloss top coat, it works fine but i’m sure it’s a lot less work if i had gloss coated it first.
johnnay, How? By spending way too much time panel lining ^^;. Usually I just wipe it off, but I’ve taken a liking to using a cotton bud to blur the lines. If that doesn’t work, then there is always alcohol and toothpicks…. and if that also doesn’t work, then there is always .3 pencil ^^
ant1phon, that has got to be the most pro way of panel lining I have ever heard of o_o
@Kefka: I used a sharpie too back when i couldn’t afford gundam markers :D But mine was the fat nib type, so i had fat lines too.
@ant1ph0n: much too pro for a noob like me :| it’s ultra hard to get topcoats of any kind where i’m from, so i’ll give it a go when i finally score some gloss topcoat. took me 6 months of hunting just to get mr hobby flat topcoats =_=”
@Z: guess i’m too impatient since i tend to rush to get the lining done XD thanks for the tips
hey, i have a question about painting, i just finished building the PG aile strike and i sprayed a couple pieces with white tamiya paint and it came out looking pretty ugly. it was kind of dull and there was specs everywhere in the paint. is there anyway to correct this?
should i use primer before and then would this give me a even coat?
melissa, how old was your paint and how was the environment you painted in? Was it cold/humid/dry? Bad temp tends to mess with paint. I don’t spray paint so I’m not sure how to confidently help you. Maybe someone like Busterbeam or Lupes can tip in something more useful ^^;.
Z’s right- if it’s anything like it is here in Ohio where you are, the temperature likely is to blame for the way they came out. If you can, try putting the parts on a paper plate, spraying them outside and then bringing them in to dry, that’s what I do in the winter season.
I’m the lurker here and always looking for your updates on review. I must admit your my favourite review style coz you’re awesome on posing your kits. I like it, not like dalong, although dalong’s review is comprehensive but he oftenly try to pose and the result is kinda awkward. but yours, is not awkward at all ^^
Thanks for the feedback and coming out of lurking ^^. Glad that you like the photos on this blog (the only saving grace for my models) ^^. and yea, we can exchange links! Funny though… since I thought I’ve already added you a long time ago since I remember visiting your blog a few times. You make some pretty clean custom models ^^
Over the past year I have really gotten into MG/PG Gundams
I like your collection. Even tho I have a Air Brush with Compressor I am too chicken to use it on an avg Model costing about $60. I keep hearing about this Clear coating as the alternative. And Z I have read your posts on Clear Coating. I have protected my decals with thin coating of nail polish. But I want to move to clear Coating. Do I just spray the stuff on a completed, decaled, panel lined model. Or do I need to disassemble and spray the parts separately
best to spray over dividual part since then it is more thorough because the outer armor covers bits that might get exposed when you rotate some parts or something.
I just gave up playing mg, all of my mgs are either broken or incomplete. It is too expensive, and it keeps on breaking. The cost of one mg here in Singapore can sustain you living on the streets in Singapore for 3 days straight
Hey have you done the MG RX-79(G) yet? I just completed it and it’s a completely straight forward model, but for some reason the legs are so flimsy it’s unable to stand straight up cause its so loose in the thigh joint. I looked over every runner and sections in the manual but i can’t find a solution. You have same problem(if you have it) or hear about that problem?
November 23, 2009 at 12:50 PM
nope. Don’t have that Gundam. Thought aboout it in the past but now it’s a bit old… ^^;
December 9, 2009 at 4:17 PM
Dude your collection just keeps growing and growing …..cool
December 20, 2009 at 11:46 PM
How’d you get so fine lines with the regular Gundam marker :| I always end up with big flat lines that are hell to clean off :|
December 21, 2009 at 5:59 AM
@Johnnay I don’t know. I use a sharpie.
December 21, 2009 at 5:33 PM
@Johnnay
the gundam marker tip can’t be pushed in too much or it will make the ink come out wider.
if you don’t wanna use the gundam marker technique, buy some enamel paint + zippo lighter fluid + a soft pointed small brush. when the whole kit is assembled, take apart each respective limb and gloss top coat it.
dry it thoroughly, then get a glass/ceramic/metal pan/bowl and take a few drops of enamel black paint or whatever panel line color of your choice and mix in zippo lighter fluid or ronsonol fluid. my mix is usually not even close to being viscous. i’d say make it 25%-35% enamel with the rest lighter fluid. swish it around ’til you get a wash that is runny.
dip the pointed brush in to get a droplet onto the hairs. let that droplet touch any of the grooves/lines and watch it run! [capillary action]
i’m excited about doing this on my char zaku 2.0 WIP =D
i tried it on my rx-78 ver ka WIP without gloss top coat, it works fine but i’m sure it’s a lot less work if i had gloss coated it first.
good luck.
December 21, 2009 at 8:27 PM
johnnay, How? By spending way too much time panel lining ^^;. Usually I just wipe it off, but I’ve taken a liking to using a cotton bud to blur the lines. If that doesn’t work, then there is always alcohol and toothpicks…. and if that also doesn’t work, then there is always .3 pencil ^^
ant1phon, that has got to be the most pro way of panel lining I have ever heard of o_o
December 23, 2009 at 10:32 PM
@Kefka: I used a sharpie too back when i couldn’t afford gundam markers :D But mine was the fat nib type, so i had fat lines too.
@ant1ph0n: much too pro for a noob like me :| it’s ultra hard to get topcoats of any kind where i’m from, so i’ll give it a go when i finally score some gloss topcoat. took me 6 months of hunting just to get mr hobby flat topcoats =_=”
@Z: guess i’m too impatient since i tend to rush to get the lining done XD thanks for the tips
January 5, 2010 at 6:27 PM
hey, i have a question about painting, i just finished building the PG aile strike and i sprayed a couple pieces with white tamiya paint and it came out looking pretty ugly. it was kind of dull and there was specs everywhere in the paint. is there anyway to correct this?
should i use primer before and then would this give me a even coat?
January 6, 2010 at 12:22 AM
melissa, how old was your paint and how was the environment you painted in? Was it cold/humid/dry? Bad temp tends to mess with paint. I don’t spray paint so I’m not sure how to confidently help you. Maybe someone like Busterbeam or Lupes can tip in something more useful ^^;.
January 6, 2010 at 12:34 AM
Z’s right- if it’s anything like it is here in Ohio where you are, the temperature likely is to blame for the way they came out. If you can, try putting the parts on a paper plate, spraying them outside and then bringing them in to dry, that’s what I do in the winter season.
January 18, 2010 at 4:06 AM
I’m the lurker here and always looking for your updates on review. I must admit your my favourite review style coz you’re awesome on posing your kits. I like it, not like dalong, although dalong’s review is comprehensive but he oftenly try to pose and the result is kinda awkward. but yours, is not awkward at all ^^
January 18, 2010 at 2:01 PM
Thanks for the feedback and coming out of lurking ^^. Glad that you like the photos on this blog (the only saving grace for my models) ^^. and yea, we can exchange links! Funny though… since I thought I’ve already added you a long time ago since I remember visiting your blog a few times. You make some pretty clean custom models ^^
January 28, 2010 at 9:19 AM
Hello
Over the past year I have really gotten into MG/PG Gundams
I like your collection. Even tho I have a Air Brush with Compressor I am too chicken to use it on an avg Model costing about $60. I keep hearing about this Clear coating as the alternative. And Z I have read your posts on Clear Coating. I have protected my decals with thin coating of nail polish. But I want to move to clear Coating. Do I just spray the stuff on a completed, decaled, panel lined model. Or do I need to disassemble and spray the parts separately
Thanks
January 29, 2010 at 2:21 AM
best to spray over dividual part since then it is more thorough because the outer armor covers bits that might get exposed when you rotate some parts or something.
January 29, 2010 at 7:04 AM
Ever tried the MG Quebley?
BTW, try doing the MG Hi-Nu after the PG Strike + Skygrasper!
January 29, 2010 at 10:09 PM
The model is nice… but dang its shoulder span takes up so much space. I think I’d like the purple Mk II ^^
January 30, 2010 at 2:28 AM
Much more than the Sazabi and the Ex-S? XD
February 3, 2010 at 8:29 AM
WOW thats a large colection of models. What are you getting next GN-X or Red Frame Astray?
April 12, 2010 at 4:18 AM
I Was Wondering If You Are Going To Be Doing A Review Of The “1/100 Scale Master Grade Gundam Astray Red Frame Kai”
April 13, 2010 at 2:04 PM
Yea. WHy not?
May 6, 2010 at 11:09 PM
I just gave up playing mg, all of my mgs are either broken or incomplete. It is too expensive, and it keeps on breaking. The cost of one mg here in Singapore can sustain you living on the streets in Singapore for 3 days straight
May 23, 2010 at 6:58 PM
How did you colloring blade, on exia ignition??
It’s like a metal or steel color, so shiny…
June 16, 2010 at 2:18 PM
Hey have you done the MG RX-79(G) yet? I just completed it and it’s a completely straight forward model, but for some reason the legs are so flimsy it’s unable to stand straight up cause its so loose in the thigh joint. I looked over every runner and sections in the manual but i can’t find a solution. You have same problem(if you have it) or hear about that problem?
June 17, 2010 at 2:12 AM
Sorry… i don’t have that model ^^;