When I first saw the Unicorn Gundam on a Magazine scan, I was like “wow… how unique!”. Unicorn looked like something out of Macross Plus while keeping the mobile suit feeling but I wasn’t actually attracted to it though… until I saw Destroy Mode! I laughed… it transformed from an original design to something we all recognize: IT’S A GUNDAM! The red panels are certainly alluring enough to make me pre-order the MG the moment I knew about it. That being said… I actually have this MG since it first came out (last christmas) and left it on my shelf for about 10 months before finally getting to it now. Geez…
I love the design of the Unicorn and find it so special that I don’t think straight building it will do the Gundam any justice so I wanted to put in all of my effort into this model. This is my first time using paint on a Gundam model in a larger scale than just minor detailing. The only parts that weren’t painted were the white parts; I just sprayed top coat on them to flatten the shine.
Out of the Box
If I counted right, this model comes with 20 frame runners of parts and suprisingly, no PC parts. As expected of a Ver. Ka kit, you get this HUGE sheet of marking stickers and decal. Yay!
The Works- Preparations, Color Testing, Progress and Whatnot
The one thing I didn’t like about this model is that the transparent parts are of a dull pink color. Combined with the pure white parts, and it gives off a nauseating effect to me. I figured I should probably make it more vivid.
Before I began on the construction, I actually looked through the manual like twenty times to familiarize myself with the Gundam’s parts. This helps me prepare on what I need to do later on and I’ll at least have an idea on where I need and don’t need to paint.
Before I paint the actual piece, I tested all my paint on the runners itself to see how it turns out as a precaution. Played around until I find a satisfying result then move on to the actual parts. At the end, I’ve settled on painting over the pink parts in Tamiya Clear Red. It makes the Destroy panels more vivid and give it a Jolly Rancher red look to it ^_^. The white parts I just spray with Mr. Hobby’s Flat top coat.
The Body
After painting the pink body panels and waiting for it to dry, I started construction of the body first. Many little pieces build right on top of each other to form the bulk of the body. Even though there are plenty of sliding parts, the body doesn’t feel the least bit flimsy. It’s actually quite solid!
I sprayed Mr. Hobby’s Flat top coat after applying the decals and stickers.
The Arms and Hands
Same process as the body. Check out the difference between the painted and unpainted arms! :D
For the hands, I cut up the 3-finger piece into individual pieces to allow more articulation when posing. I think this is a no-brainer mod ^^;
Shoulders
For the shoulders, I assembled it without the red panels first so I can spray the top coat without risk having to fog up the red panels. It’s takes more time since I have to dissemble and reassemble it again but it was necessary.
The Waist
One of the most interesting things of this model is seeing how all the sliding parts go together that allows Unicorn to transform into Destroy Mode. Even the waist has plenty of sliding, flipping, opening panels that requires some time to assemble than the average MG waist. A locking mechanism on the rear allows you to pull the ball socket that connects the legs outward a little (completely pointless methinks).
Backpack
I thought the plain gray thrusters and beam saber holders were a bit boring so I painted them in Gunmetal on the outside ^^;. The inside is coated with multiple layers of Tamiya flat red then another layer of the clear red. I also ran over the blue part with Tamiya Flat Blue.
Legs and Feet
There’s nothing really “complicated” or difficult about assembling this part surprisingly as everything seem straightforward despite the abundance of pieces. You can actually immediately see how the inner mechanisms work as you build it that allow the legs to transform.
Head
First off… whoever decided to use the yellow foil sticker for the Unicorn’s V-fin and thinks it look even remotely OKAY deserves to have their model confiscated >_>. The foil sticker is just hideous and destroys any elegance this Ver. Ka model has.
Although I have Tamiya Yellow, I decided to not use it because I find a yellow v-fin on an almost entirely white Gundam is… out of place. I had a better idea…
The V-fin took a good amount of time and effort for me to get it right. The process was paint the lines, wipe with thinner, paint, wipe, paint, wipe until I got it how I want it. So tedious…
The only foil sticker I used on this ENTIRE model was for the eyes. I painted in everything else.
Weapons
Painted the Beam Magnum’s ammo pack into gunmetal and painted in the missles for the bazooka.
I didn’t care enough to assemble the other ammo packs ^^;
As for the beam sabers, they were originally pink but that didn’t flow well with the red I had going so I painted them too!
Unicorn has four beam sabers but the model only comes with two beams sooo okay… I took two more from my other MG models and painted them as well. They fit because these are just your generic MG UC beams.
Action Base
Unicorn has its own clip for the Action Base but didn’t come with the base itself so thought I bust out a new white one from my Action Base Reserve (aka my closet). Got this the same time I bought Unicorn :D
Unicorn Mode
My initial impression of the completed model was… “Wow… it can’t move!” but it’s probably the top coat that got on the joint that cause it to be so stiff. Loving how clean the color scheme look on this model. The details are still sharp despite the fact I didn’t even do the panel lines! Movement does feel restricted but not really something to complain about and for this model, its not one of its maint points anyway.
ORE WA GUNDAM MODE!
Transforming Unicorn looks deceptively complicated from the manual but it’s actually quite simple and easy after playing with it a couple of times. It’s very straightforward and the parts hold in place pretty well for the most part.
When in Gundam Destroy mode, Unicorn becomes a little more loose and feel a bit less stable than its former self. This is probably due to the added height. The body also tends to the come off easier from the waist because the peg isn’t as deep into the socket anymore. It might feel like it’ll break at first when trying to move it around but after getting the hang of it, the joints are quite abusable! Their range might be limited but they hold in place very well and doesn’t fall to the whims of gravity. This is great because that means it’s actually more versatile in mid-air poses!
I’m truly proud of this model’s end result. The dark red definitely looks a lot better (vivid) than the stock pink in my eyes. Sure, I made a few whoops here and there but the overall picture is just aesthetically pleasing to the eyes (to mine at least).
Now for the moment of truth!
UNICORN DRILL! FINAL ATTACK!!
cookies to anyone who knows the references ^_^
WITH YOUR DRILL, PIERCE THE HEAVENS!!!
DRILL BOOSTER KNUCKLE!!!
And these two are my favorite shots during the photoshoot:
Last Thoughts
I love this model. This is definitely a great model in and of itself. Even with the high number of part runners, this model can still be built quickly and it isn’t as sophisticated as something like the MG Zeta Gundam Ver. 2.0. Even with all the sliding parts and whatnot, this model is still straightforward to assemble.
People have complained about this kit’s lack of poseability but you see… the purpose (selling point) of this particular model is not its articulation but I think we all know where the true beauty of this model comes from. Katoki probably intended this kit to be yet another GFF in model form. I actually find the comment “lack of poseability” is an overstatement. This model might not be able to pull off extra dynamic moves like the MG Strike Noir or even Avalanche Exia but it can still pose decently as evident in my photos. People just need to push the joints a little harder than usual, that’s all.
To get the full aesthetic pleasure out of this kit, one needs to spend a little more time and effort on it. Slapping all the little red markings and decals IS tedious and requires an infinite amount of patience but the end result is well worth it.
OTHERS’ REVIEW:















































































































































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May 25, 2010 at 10:36 PM
hey if i completed my kits with the decals and stickers, can i just use the flat topcoat and finish it?
June 21, 2010 at 3:50 PM
Hey Z,
I’ve got the titanium finish version and MAN HIS LEGS ARE SO HEAVY. When I put this baby on an action base his legs droop down sooo much.
You know the pose where you have half of his body in destroy mode? I had that pose BUT HIS LEGS, they can’t even split apart as wide as the one in your picture.
you got any idea on how to stiffen the hip joints? So that Unicorn can actually… look good instead of just standing.
Well actually he does look good just standing, but still.
June 21, 2010 at 7:16 PM
Are the pegs that connect the legs to the waist FULLY in?
June 22, 2010 at 4:39 PM
Of course.
June 26, 2010 at 2:55 PM
this unicorn seems almost identical to the one with the cage that i have. wonder what the difference is
August 3, 2010 at 6:51 PM
im assuming your talking about the HD colors +MS cadge if you are the difference is that some parts on HD colors are gloss injected and on the head Vulcan’s are molded in and the parts on the legs are different
August 29, 2010 at 10:56 PM
thank you =D
July 3, 2010 at 7:33 AM
I’m kind of torn between the OVA version and Sword Impulse. But I’ll say that damn is that foil sticker ugly. I’ll be painting that.
August 3, 2010 at 1:46 AM
i applied the foil sticker for the v fin but after i applied it i picked out the detail with a toothpick and panel lined it and i have to say it does look better then white with red lining =/
August 19, 2010 at 4:57 AM
foil sticker are bad…. paint are better than that
August 26, 2010 at 9:25 AM
well i know paint is better i just dont have any skill with pint
August 26, 2010 at 9:30 AM
paint** my bad
August 15, 2010 at 8:14 AM
TENGENTOPPAGURENLAGGAN. Cookies plox =^.^=
August 20, 2010 at 2:21 AM
hey Z is there a special paint that makes a translucent plastic still look translucent? for example i spray on a green paint on a the pink part of the unicorn and the result will be a translucent color?
August 26, 2010 at 9:28 AM
as long as you use clear paint (i advise tamiya clear green if your goin for clear green psycho frame) it should be fine
August 26, 2010 at 12:21 PM
Green on pink might not turn out green because the pink will show through. Try on the runner first to make sure you get the finish you want before doing it on the actual pieces.
But yes, Tamiya clear green or such will result in a translucent finish.
August 29, 2010 at 8:49 PM
But green on pink might give off a bad mix of color though so yea… try on a runner first.
August 29, 2010 at 10:28 PM
won’t work. I had the same idea as you but the clear green on the pink runner’s a bad mix of color as Z stated. I used metallic green in the end ^^ if you really want it clear green you would have to recast the runners yourself I think =/
August 29, 2010 at 10:00 AM
hey… i have some problems my unicorn. the head does not turn. the side panels on the head is hindering the turn. also, the waist joint is too short.
i realise that in the your photoshoots the waist is not pulled down. i guess that is why u did not have the waist problem. as for the head, how did u manage to get it to turn?.
August 29, 2010 at 8:53 PM
hmm… not really sure. It just does? meaning… unless you can show me why yours doesn’t turn, I can’t really answer you why mine does ^^;. Well, it can turn up to a certain degree before the side of its face gets obstructed.
November 11, 2010 at 11:00 PM
why don’t you use the gatling gun add-ons?
November 11, 2010 at 11:10 PM
because it doesn’t come with it and I don’t have it.
November 22, 2010 at 10:28 AM
Is there any diffrences between the HD version with the cage and the Katoki version? thx in advance. ^^
November 22, 2010 at 12:46 PM
one comes with the cage and one doesn’t… /smartass
different markings, vulcans on the head (o0o0o!), and a rather insignificant increase in knee articulation.
December 9, 2010 at 2:09 AM
Hey Z, would you recommend buying THIS version or the OVA (New) version? They both cost the same, but sometimes one just looks rather more unique than the other. And I don’t understand why the OVA version has a blue saber…
Or maybe you would rather recommend saving 1200 yen by getting the HGUC models of both Destroy and Unicorn mode?
Which do you think is worth more for the money?
December 9, 2010 at 2:11 AM
And yes, I WILL be purchasing a Shinanju. So if you recommend me to buy the HGUC Unicorns, I will purchase the HGUC Shinanju. If you recommend the MG, I’ll have to find some money to purchase the MG Shinanju.
December 9, 2010 at 2:43 AM
Well.. if you like posing your models then the OVA ver. is the way to go (and I dig those blue beam sabers!) but I guess the HGUC models might be able to accomplish that more, however… I do think the MG looks better as a display piece.
If I don’t have this unicorn and I have to devise something… it would be OVA Unicorn + MG Unicorn Ver. Ka decals so I’ll get the best of both the old and new world heh.
December 11, 2010 at 2:21 AM
Alright thanks for the answers!
Seems like the OVA Ver is the way to go.
Sigh… (looking at wallet).
Sinanju seems to far away…
December 24, 2010 at 10:58 AM
I was just going to ask the same question until I read this XD thanks for the advice Z! I think I’ll just buy the OVA ver with the Ver.Ka decals, I bet it’ll looked great :D and btw what do you think I should buy, the one with the MS Cage or not?
December 24, 2010 at 7:53 PM
Buying the one with the cage or not depends solely on your end goal… will you be using the cage for display or no? I personally wouldn’t and I actually don’t care for it so I’ll stick with the regular release.
December 13, 2010 at 4:48 AM
Hey Z, just wondering, did u topcoat the psycho frame which u painted clear red to seal the paint? As in using gloss topcoat. Cos’ well er i’ve read somewhere that gloss topcoat would not fog up the clear parts. Do u advice topcoating(gloss) to seal in the paint? Thx in advance:D
December 13, 2010 at 4:57 AM
gloss topcoat is a good idea since it preserves the shine… but no, I didn’t use it when assembling mine because I didn’t have any.
December 15, 2010 at 6:28 PM
New to gundam model building (waiting for my models to come in). This being one of them I am just curious as to when you use the top coat on the models after decaling etc does it make the model harder to pose or make parts stick together? Also since I like how the psycho frame and you hand panted them how thin did you make your paint and what do you thin it with? I’ve never used that type of paint before. Thanks!
December 16, 2010 at 1:30 AM
No… the parts don’t stick but it does make the joints a bit stiffer which I find it to be a nice thing. I like the paint thin enough where it drips with ease from my brush. Since my paint is acrylic, I thin it with rubbing alcohol instead of an actual thinner… not sure if it is a good idea or not, but since that particular bottle of paint is still good even now then guess it is not detrimental.
December 17, 2010 at 1:06 PM
hey z awesome reviews :) ur reviews are really inspiring me to take my modeling skills up a notch :) so how tedious are the decals and clear stickers on the unicorn compared to say the wing gundam verka (stickers) and sinanju (decals)??
December 23, 2010 at 12:03 AM
It is about the same as the Wing Ver. Ka and not as bad as the Sinanju…
December 22, 2010 at 11:32 PM
hey Z, how did you apply the topcoat on this kit, is it after you complete the model (in unicorn mode, psycho frame hidden) or before you assemble each part (white parts one by one)
December 23, 2010 at 12:03 AM
Completed and with the psyco frame hidden.
December 23, 2010 at 1:06 AM
thanks, I’ll start mine by saturday.. cause i’m afraid that topcoat will make the psycho frame fogged up or will make the pcs stick together, and hard to transform into destroy mode
December 23, 2010 at 7:35 AM
hmmm how many layers of top coat would u think would do for an over ridiculous shiny gundam xD (think reflective properties xD)
January 13, 2011 at 10:06 PM
I was reading the comments above about the differences between the Ver. KA and the new OVA model and I was wondering if I decided to buy the OVA model, is there a site where I could buy the red beam sabers?
January 14, 2011 at 12:45 AM
you mean the pink one? They’re your standard MG UC Beam saber part. If you have any MGUC models, then they’re sure to be included. If not, you can ask Gundam Guy (check my blogroll). But for something like that, I’m sure you can get it for free (or for cheap) if you ask a gunpla forum or something.
January 15, 2011 at 9:13 PM
Thanks Z, I’ve already contacted GG Infinite regarding the beam sabers! But I was confused between the new OVA MG UC kits. Besides the cage, is there any other difference between the OVA kits?
January 15, 2011 at 11:15 PM
there is negligible amount of improved articulation in the knee and vulcans molded into the head.
February 9, 2011 at 5:49 PM
Z, did you spray paint the Psycho frame or hand painted it?
March 10, 2011 at 10:51 AM
hand painted
March 10, 2011 at 8:15 AM
z, do u apply a surfacer before doing the painting? and what type of brush did u use?
also, did you apply the stickers and decals first before applying the top coat on white parts?
thanks dude= )
March 10, 2011 at 10:53 AM
surfacer? I don’t even know what that is. I just used a fine brush. topcoat comes after everything else. always.
March 13, 2011 at 11:09 AM
haha, ok thanks z…your unicorn looks awesome dude, very nice job
March 11, 2011 at 11:00 AM
hi z, have you draw the panel line on your unicorn? because after i look at your photo i feel that you no have paint any panel line beside the v-fin and the destroy mode mouth.
March 13, 2011 at 8:43 PM
No, I did not panel line my Gundam.