This page is about the tools I use and the methods I use to build all of my Gundam models. This isn’t exactly a tutorial but you can somewhat use it as such I guess ^_^; This is mostly an outline of how I generally do things after spending quite some time messing around and experimenting.
I collect Gundam models solely for the “Gundam” part and not so much for the “model” so that part is not really a dedicated hobby. I am also extremely lazy. I only do just enough to make myself happy with the end result of my models… most of the time, I don’t feel the need to paint. While I generally don’t paint, there are times where I need to bust out the paint bottles to make myself satisfied with the model.
With the exception of Danny Choo’s tutorial (read it longgggggggggg time ago), I don’t ever read DIY or any modeling guide simply because… I suck at following directions and find others techniques overwhelming ^^;. The style I build my Gundam models now are an accumulation of experience, trial and error, failures, and plenty of experimenting. Up to this day, I’m still playing around with pieces to get the best results I can.
My first few Gundam models were built with MY BARE HANDS! no tools… just twist and pull with my fingers. It was painful and time consuming ahah xD. Now I have an arsenal of tools to assist myself in building that perfect model. If you are using your tools correctly and effectively, they can be your best friends in Gunpla building… but they can also be very counterproductive if you’re using it wrong.
“One should learn the limits and restrictions of their weapons.” -Lelouch Lamperouge
Okay, now that the intro is over with… Let me introduce my tools!
My main weapon tool. This is my sharp side-cutter. I’m sure all of you have one or two. I only use this on pieces that requires a very clean cut or pieces that have a very thin connector/sprue/whatever to the runner frame. Basically, I only use this for outer armor pieces on MG models because it does a great job of leaving nub marks minimum.
This used to be my primary cutter but its now my secondary. I used this one mainly for the inner frames of MG or on pieces that isn’t shown on the outside. This one is also used for heavier duty cutting such as thicker connectors and cutting the runner frame itself. Switching between two cutters is beneficial in that they’ll stay sharper longer from less work.
Two-way “non-stratch” needle nose pliers. Great for fixing mistakes, holding onto thin pieces for painting, clamping two stubborn pieces shut, and pulling parts out. Though it is labeled “non scratch”, it actually can leave teeth marks if you apply enough force on the plastic but I can say this is definitely a lot safer than using a metal plier.
My nub removal buddies. These are very thin and fine files and I use them instead of sandpaper for removing nub marks. They do a great job… unless I screw up and accidentally filed at an angle then it’ll leave a mess. I prefer files over sandpaper because a file is more solid and I can actually “aim” whereas sandpaper wears off and scratches more than I intended.
For the panel lines, I have four Gundam panel line markers and a .3 Zebra Drafix pencil (wish there was a .1 though). I have multiple panel line markers for a few reasons.
- one for “easy” and surface panel lines. Light work.
- one to jab into the deeper lines
- one where I intentionally mess up the tip so it can make thicker lines for the wider slots.
- grey for white. Black for other/darker colors.
- the pencil is to look cool XD
I use the tweezers for applying the clear and foil stickers on my MG models. They also work for slipping in PC parts to tight areas in a certain direction. Tweezers are a lot easier to use for tiny applications than knives ^^.
The X-Acto and Design Knife comes in very handy at times. They’re also my riskier alternative to removing nubs.
Toothpicks, skewers… cheap yet useful commodities. The toothpicks help me apply paint and clean tiny tight areas on pieces. The skewers can be used to hold painted pieces for drying.
Sandpaper- The ones I have are P1200 and doesn’t really help in removing nub marks but it can somewhat clean rough surfaces
Scissors- Cutting decals. It works so much better than cutting with a knife!
Cutting Mat- I don’t really get to cut much on it. This board is more for me to lay out and organize my parts and do measurements.
Masking Tape has two functions for me. 1. Isolate an area to be detailed 2. Keep decals in place so I can rub them in. Noticed how thin one of the rolls is. Great for Gunpla pieces ^^
I have a few set of Gundam markers for detailing. The current sets I have are the SD Gundam color set, Fine point set, and Gundam SEED set. Some of the colors come handy at random times but it’s nice to have some sort of versatility with so many colors.
When Gundam markers fail to deliver, the Tamiya paint comes in. My paint set is ever growing and I have more now than what’s shown above. I basically have all the “popular” Gundam colors handy in case I ever need to hide blemishes, paint in details accurately… or just need to paint in general ^^.
Not shown are q-tips and rubbing alcohol- they are great for cleaning up panel lines and tight spots!
If you have carpet floor, then you should definitely have some paper towels handy. I use it to lay my tools and this is where I do my cleaning, filing, and nub removing so all the plastic bits fall onto the towel and not on the carpet :) I promptly vacuum after I build a model.
The finishing touch and a work of miracle. Depending on how addicted you are to this and the size of the model, one can can last between 2-3 models. Matte top coat puts a clear layer onto the shiny plastic and gives it a non-reflective look. It also gives a better feel to the plastic… sorta like clay yet still very solid. It just looks better… that’s all you need to know :). Sinanju can attest to that.
and Haruhi to give you good luck and motivation :)
Okay, that’s all the tools I use. Now on to the next part…
The Works
I think nothing special of the way I build my kits. I just do what makes sense to get the best result. Just do what makes sense. My style all comes from experience, experimenting, and trial and error… and following the instructions.
Before starting on the actual construction of a Gundam model, one should look over the manual and frames from time to time to develop a sense of the kit. This helps me find some of the spots that need more attention than others and where there might be lack of details. The more you know the Gundam, the less surprise there is and the more ready you will be.
I don’t actually follow the manual from the start… after skimping through it, I find the most troublesome parts and put those together first to get it out of the way xD.
Now here’s the outline on how I cut, clean, detail, and build my kits.
Cutting and Nub Removal
Before I begin cutting, I ask myself the following questions:
- how does this piece go into the whole assembly?
- Will it be shown?
- Where are the nub marks?
- Will this piece be covered by something else?
- What am I doing with my life?
- What are my future goals going to be?
- Is dinner ready?
I know this is a lot and a bit redundant since the manual shows it but it helps me confirm my certainty that I’m paying attention instead of blindly following the book. This helps me determine how much effort I should put into cutting and detailing it. Honestly, it takes me only a mere instant to answer all of the above.
This is how I do a straightforward cut for outer pieces. I leave about like 1 mm of the connector on the piece and I clean it off later. This is to prevent risk of damage to the piece itself. If I were to cut flat right on the piece, then the connector would “twist” and chew into the piece, leaving a rough nub mark like in the example below.
^^^^ I don’t want this and probably neither do you. It’s a lot harder to clean than leaving some nips and cleaning it off. After cutting it off the piece, I’ll just snip off as much of the remains as I can then file it down, and wipe off the residue to clean it up.
^This is the outcome. It looks pretty clean right? Nitpick on it if you like. I do this for every piece that shows on the outside of the model. Cleaning and removing nub marks are one of the major factors on why I take so long to complete an unpainted model ^^;
Alternative: if you do happen to cut flat against the piece first then you should scratch the nub mark with your fingernails to remove some impurities and the nub will smooth out a bit, looking a little more cleaner.
Here are a few more examples of my nub removals:
Unless you’re specifically trying to look for them under a fluorescent lamp, chances are… you won’t be able to see them ^_^. I know I don’t…
Now there will be times where even my small cutter can’t fit in to cut the piece so what I do is cut off the entire connector with my secondary cutter and work from there. See below.
Cleaning nub marks on colored pieces takes a bit more than white pieces because they are more apparent than on white pieces unfortunately. This is what I do…
- Work on the nub with a file like with the white pieces
- Take out (closest) matching Gundam marker for the piece and test it on its runner if it’ll blend well.
- If so, I just lightly touch the nub mark with the marker
- Clean off the paint with q-tip and rubbing alcohol – I’m just wiping the paint on the surface off. What’s left after this will be the paint stuck in the micro gaps on the nub and that’ll blend right in with the plastic.
This isn’t what I would call “hiding” the nub mark but rather I think of this as filling in those little holes and gaps on the nub mark (which are white) with the same color as the piece so the nub somewhat disappears. Check below:
If the tip of the marker is too thick then I’ll just use a toothpick, dip it in the paint and detail it on the nub from there. This actually works a lot better for smaller nubs.
More examples:
See the difference between the painted and unpainted ones in the middle photos?
Panel Lines
To me, panel lines should be fine and subtle. They are there to make details on the parts more pronounced so your eyes can see that the details are there. Panel lines itself should not be attracting the attention of your eyes. This is why I make my panel lines as fine and light as possible. I also like “smudged” lines on some parts of the model than solid lines because it gives a more animated look and a sense of motion and realism to it (I hope what i just said makes sense because I can’t find any better words). I just think it looks better than simple solid lines all around, that’s all xD. Saying that, I would just take my finger and wipe off the panel line ink until I get the desired effect.
I use the Gundam panel line markers for closed space and the pencil for open space since the lead is still too thick to fit in regular panel lines. The pencil lead blends in so well with the marker that you can’t tell I use both :D
Pencil + Marker:
I prefer to cut and panel line every piece before I put them together because it’s a lot easier to work with and easier to clean if I screw up.
Detailing with Panel markers
Let’s take a look at some of these closed space parts…
The black detailing (RX-78-2′s vents, Ex-S’ incom, and Avalanche thrusters) above are done with just the panel line marker and using toothpicks with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. Depending on the situation, I might also use q-tips or a paper towel. Either way, I’m always happy with the results. The best part is that I don’t have to resort to paint!
Detailing with Decals
As you all know, there are dry transfer decals (clear sheet, white backing) and water transfer decals (blue sheet). Dry transfers come with your MG model and they are one-shot only so if you screw it up, then it’s gone forever. Water decals you will have to buy and you get to play around with them until you get it right. The Mark Setter is used to make sure the water decal actually adheres to the plastic. I now prefer water decals more than dry transfer due to the ease of use.
Water Transfer Decals
-Cut out the decal you need
- Dip in water for 10-20 seconds (longer if decal is bigger).
- Take a cotton bud and just slide the piece onto the plastic.
- Position. Press with cotton bud to dry.
- Apply mark setter. Done!
Dry Transfer Decals
The decals that come with your model tends to be more drama-filled than water transfers because you only have one chance. Think of the eyesore that is a crooked decal! Medium to big decals aren’t a problem as they are easier to handle. However, for the smaller bits…
Since there’s no way I can cut out perfect squares, I have to use the decal design itself to align it on the piece. The first thing I do is find a reference point. It could be anything- a corner, a panel line, the edge. Anything! As long as it is easy to work with and remember, I can use it as a reference point to know where to place my decal and allows me to place the same decal on the other side as well (the decal map in the manual is poor in scaling and inaccurate of size sometimes). The example from the top uses the edge and corner as a reference point for me to position the decal and I’ll do the same for the other side where I have to apply the same one. Hold it still and rub it out like there’s no tomorrow!
There’s a well-respected yet sadistic man by the name of Hajime Katoki who is probably laughing at the average Gunpla modeler for trying to apply decals in situations similar to the photo above. Every now and then (and guaranteed if your model is a “Ver. Ka”), you will have to apply decals on unfavorable surfaces such as between panel lines, bumps, curves, tight spots and even around corners. The first problem is that the decal sheet is not very flexible and the decal will tend to loosen from the sheet or wrinkle up. The second problem is trying to position it. The third is applying it without it breaking prematurely. This is where masking tape can minimize the damage. After positioning carefully, I’d wrap the decal TIGHTLY with the masking tape before I begin to rub the hell out of it. At this point, it is a lot better to just buy the water transfers… >_>
Detailing with Clear Stickers
Nobody likes these stickers… But I think that’s because the majority doesn’t know how/want to apply it. The main hate comes from the borderline it gives off. Simple simple solution- Just cut out the actual marking with a knife.
Sure it is time consuming to cut them ALL out but this little step makes the stickers look similar to decals, and results in a better looking model. I’ve at least come to accept the looks of clear stickers after much practicing of the cutting-out method (I get faster at it) and use it whenever I see fit. Wing Ver. Ka and Unicorn had this treatment:
All the little markings are clear stickers. You don’t really see any borderlines, right? :)
Top Coating
Ah yes… top coating. The best thing ever for those who doesn’t paint their models. This is the VERY LAST step in completing the model. Top coating comes after doing panel lines and decals. For a thorough job, I’d take the model apart (or just get to top coating right after assembling the part and applying the decals)…
- First top coat the elbows and knees first without outer armor. Let dry.
- Put on outer armor. Top coat. Let dry. Spray anywhere I miss. Let dry.
- Spray all over the final assembled model for good measure.
Typically, one layer is plenty enough. Any more layers will only be visible in person and gets harder to show up on photo.
And there you have it! Z’s Gundam model building process :)
Some last words on the tools- If you are starting out, don’t just buy all the tools you “think” you’ll need all at once. This can be a potential waste of money. Start out with one tool, work with it, know its limits and become efficient and effective with it before you adding a new tool. This way you can actually become more accustomed to and familiar with your arsenal faster. I started out with my hands and slowly worked my way towards each tool one at a time.
Although this might help some of you, I say the best way to improve is to keep practicing, make errors, find solutions and see what works best for you. We have different hands. My methods might not suit your style. There are probably some things I left out because I do it subconsciously and didn’t think much of it. Methods should also be adjusted on a model-by-model basis so some of my ideas might not work for another model (can’t think of an example yet xD). Just stating the obvious.
Lastly… BE PATIENT! Take your time! You all know very well that I do xD. Nothing sucks more than a haste model job. This is not a race but rather, a test of patience. If you can take your time to carefully plan and build your model, the finished model is that much more rewarding to yourself.
Feel free to ask any questions or if there are other things I should add. I want to be able to contually update this page ^_^
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July 29, 2008 at 7:08 PM
Thanks so much for the tips man. I’m working on Shin Musha right now. Previously I have troubles dealing with all the nub marks because of poor quality nippers. Could you tell the difference between a Auldey, Bandai and Tamiya nippers? I’m using Auldey right now because the hobby shop where I’m at does not sell Tamiya craft tools. And it’s giving me a hard time cleaning all those imperfections. Nonetheless, I will try to use your techniques for my future kits.
July 29, 2008 at 7:53 PM
Hey Malcolm, good luck on your Shin Musha. Do take your time on it. It was a very hard kit for me xD
Beside one testor nipper, I’ve been using Tamiya the whole time and they’ve never disappoint me :D
I’m not a Tamiya fanboy yet but their quality really speaks for themselves so I never care to try another brand.
July 29, 2008 at 8:20 PM
Nice work man, but you forgot about the tips for the decals :P I want to finish my MG Strike I.W.S.P (I only assemble it just right out of the box)and want to do the panel lines and put the decals, but I’m afraid of screw that last part… do you have any tip for me? :P
And what do you think about the old kits of gundam wing endless waltz 1/100? I have the sandrock custom and heavyarms custom… and I don’t really like how they look without painting them… should i invert some money in an compressor/airbrush or paint them manually? I’m a full newbie :P
Thanks for your tips anyway
July 29, 2008 at 8:40 PM
Wow nice outline,and good work constructing it^^ no pics stretching out to where it touches the sidebar^^
Anyways awesome job,and helpful tips,I’m still new to Gundam building,although I love painting,I stink at it XD so it’s nice to know I can make my Gundams look good without a lot of color splash:D
And your right,the best way to learn is to fail,find the problem or where you messed up and try to figure it out,beat that and you’ve gained IQ XD
Although I don’t have any tools to use on my gundams,it’s nice to what I can start with,I think I should get some pliers first:).Since my impatience personalty,I go and use a mechanical pencil I bought at Walgreens and “try” to panel them,although it’s a waste in the model,it’s still practice for me.I’m new to Gundam building so I buy the cheapest I can afford^^
Cute Haruhi^^
one question…Do you collect Figures?like Alter and other brands?Just wondering^^
July 29, 2008 at 8:47 PM
Ruben, don’t blow your money on a compressor yet if you’ve just started. They’re a heavy investment of money and time and requires a decent amount of ventilated space. Play around with spraypaint first.
And thanks for reminding me about the decals! I took the pictures using a 1/100 so how to apply decals left my mind. Here are some quick tips then… If you have some fingernails, it’ll be a bit easier.I hope it’s not too hard to follow without pictures…
- Cut using a scissor. Make sure you’re not touching the decal side with your fingers. You can get grease/oil on it or blur the decal and you can’t see through it.
- Pick a “reference point” on the part you’ll be applying the decal. This is important. This helps you focus on where to exactly position the decal and so you can use that same point if you’re applying the same decal on the other side/arms/legs. The reference point can be ANYTHING on the part; a panel line, a joint… anywhere on the part. I usually aim for something easy to remember and position according to the shape of the decal. I don’t have the IWSP so I can’t be even more specific. Sorry.
- Position the decal using the decal itself…not the shape you cut it out. Make sure it’s perpendicular to the direction you wanted it by eyeballing and seeing if the decal lines up correctly.
With masking tape:
-If you have masking tape, you shouldn’t need to worry so much about holding its position. You just use tape on two ends of the decal to stick it on the place.
With no masking tape:
-This can be the frustrating part… use your thumb to hold the decal still…VERY STILL… make sure it doesn’t rotate but without pressure. Get your other thumb ready and in position…RUB THE HELL OUT OF THAT DECAL! EVERY SPEC OF AREA YOU SEE! XD
- When you’re done with that, SLOWWWWLY peel to make sure nothing is left on the clear film…but if there is, just simply put it back on and rub it on. It’ll still be seamless.
Hope that helps until I can get some pictures on how to apply decals…which won’t be up until my next MG.
July 29, 2008 at 8:50 PM
[...] want it to look good without having to painting? I know I do and too lazy to paint. Finally up is “My Tools” page that highlights the general steps I take to build my models and the tools I use. I hope it can [...]
July 29, 2008 at 8:57 PM
Thanks for the decals tips, and I was thinking about the panel lines.. to do it with the sepatare parts seems a lot easier that what I had in mind till now :P
And about the painting… maybe I’ll kill some old plane kits with a handbrush for practice… do you know what type of paint should I use for that? (and sorry for my bad english, I’m from argentina :P)
Thanks!!
July 29, 2008 at 8:58 PM
Really great, I’m glad you finished it so quickly :) I have just one question, though: If I were to paint the model only using paint markers, would it look like crap? or does the paint marker do its job nicely?
Thanks again for a great post.
July 29, 2008 at 9:11 PM
Mitch- Do NOT use Gundam markers. It WILL look like crap. You will have streaks like this |||///|\ on pieces that have large surface areas. Gundam markers also doesn’t have consistent paint flow… hence the crap job. For small pieces though, they’re fine. Just check out the verniers for both of my RX-78-2 ^_^b Spray paint and hand brushing is a lot better for actual painting.
Ruben- handbrush is good to start since you will get the idea of how paint flows and stick. What type of paint (acrylic/enamel/gloss/mat) is allll up to you ^_^. You should check out whatever is available to you first at your local hobby store, choose your colors, and ask the store clerk for some ideas. You should also plan on how far you want to go with your paint job. Since you just started, just play around first to get the feel and gradually move up from there.
Roy- I don’t collect figures. No interest in them. As nice as they look, I can’t do much with them (pose). I already have negative amount of space with the Gundam models ^^; I do have random bits here and there though…
April 18, 2010 at 5:27 PM
Word.
July 29, 2008 at 9:49 PM
Thanks for this great tutorial. I spend a lot of time looking for some basic and ”don’t-use-paint” tutorial. And here i find it. It help me a lot.
July 29, 2008 at 11:54 PM
great write up Z. i’ve been tempted to use pencil for panel lines for a while now. i don’t like really dark panel lines, ones you get from the gundam panel line marker.
but if you dont mind me sharing, have you tried scratching the white nub marks with your finger nail? “stress marks” on the parts usually goes away after you scratch the crap out of it with your nails. at least that’s what i do. i’ve tried painting it but for me it doesn’t work.
oh and have you tried messing with topcoats? i really want to do it with my Wing Ver Ka.
July 30, 2008 at 12:24 AM
PurpleMTL- Good to know you find it useful ^_^
Francis- Haha thanks for reminding me. Good call. I’ll put that up in the tutorial too. Credit goes to you :D. That’s actually one of the subconscious things I do without thinking about it. I do scratch the nub with my fingernails to clear off some bits before I file or do whatever. I would leave it if the cut was clean enough. It’s so logical to me that it’s almost like me having to type “pick up the runner and cutter” before I go into “this is how I cut the piece…” xD You should tried the toothpick method to apply the paint so it isn’t as heavy. It might work better for you. The paint is there to basically fill in the white part that you can’t scratch/file off and not cover the entire nub (that makes an uglier mark).
I have not messed with top coat yet. I don’t see the need to so far but maybe I can pick up a bottle in the future and see what the fuzz is all about. My next project will be the Wing Ver. Ka and I have something different planned for it so I’ll see what’s up.
April 18, 2010 at 5:27 PM
Word.
July 30, 2008 at 12:51 AM
Same here, as soon as I see the white i rub the heck out of it like a maniac. and thanks I will try the toothpick method one time.
Awesome Wing Ver Ka. Beautiful model isn’t it? I’m just gonna leave mine as is. Love the way it is. And yes please try topcoat. I’m eager to find out more about it. Can’t wait for the review. Kudos!
July 30, 2008 at 1:28 PM
Do NOT use Gundam markers. It WILL look like crap.
Oh wow, thanks for the tip. I’ll just work on assembling them, and once I get some money I’ll look into painting it. Thanks a lot for the page and for the tips. I really appreciate it.
August 1, 2008 at 7:20 AM
Awesome tips, i’m just about to start my Ex-S (not going to paint it) that i mentioned at gamefaqs lol, this would help heaps. One thing though after you’ve cut it from the sprue, to get the ‘invisible’ nub all you did was just use the file right?? Where did you get these files?
August 2, 2008 at 1:44 AM
The files I just picked up from my local American hobby store. I’m sure you can easily find it at any hardware stores too. I file and sometimes go over it with the gundam marker (it’s the perfect blue for it) then I wipe the marker off with rubbing alcohol.
August 3, 2008 at 2:13 AM
What do you mean, why do you wipe it off. Wasn’t the point of the marker was to hide the filed part which doesn’t match the rest of the piece??
August 3, 2008 at 2:43 AM
ususally if you just use the marker on the nub and let it sit, the paint on the spot turns darker than the actual color of the plastic. When I wipe it off, I’ll only be wiping the “surface” and the paint left behind are the paint that’s covering the micro “craters” on the nub (the surface is not smooth) and so I’ll have a better blend of the paint with the plastic. Try it out and you’ll see what I mean.
August 3, 2008 at 3:55 AM
True true thanks, what kind of rubbing alcohol do you use and do you use a q-tip or something to dab the paint away? Also about the top coat business… Top coat is used when you have finished painting a model, it keeps the paint on the model longer and stuff… I’ve heard that if you don’t prime your parts, top coat will also function as a *keep the paint on the part* The thing is i’m not sure about applying top coat to a unpainted model… Also i’m not too sure if you apply it after you put the decals on or before. I’ve applied top coat on 2 models and they were applied after i put my decals on, so basically it was my final step. My model shop only sells dull top coat, but i think you can get gloss top coat. IMO dull top coat looks better, i mean come on a gundam is not always shiny :p
October 9, 2008 at 9:46 AM
Z, if you don’t mind, I would offer another method to your readers as well for removal of excess panel line marker. Use a nice rubber eraser (white preferably). Run the pen through the line, then rub the eraser over and you’ll take off the “over flow” of ink leaving a nice clean line.
However, your method works great too (as seen in the pictures above) so it would just be another way to go about detailing.
November 21, 2008 at 3:08 AM
if you really asked yourself about the last 3 question that will be hillarious!!^^
November 27, 2008 at 4:41 AM
Hey how you doing mate, found your site to be extremely helpful. Just wondering did you use GUNDAM MARKER GM18 Meta Green Metallic for the orbs on wing zero custom/ver ka, if so let me konwn cause i think thats the one i need but im not sure. Thanks for your time.
December 6, 2008 at 12:29 PM
hey do you think i should try pencil lines ive never tried it before just like to see what you think
December 6, 2008 at 11:11 PM
Yea if you can find a very thin (.1 or .3) pencil then that would work great for panel lines ^^
December 8, 2008 at 9:57 PM
thanks meant to ask before but forgot due limited brain capability
how easy would it be to remove the pencil marks i dont want them to come of to easily
December 8, 2008 at 11:58 PM
They actually aren’t very easy. I think you have to be a little deliberate to remove them if you actually get the lead into the line ^^.
December 10, 2008 at 11:13 PM
thanks for the tips built an exia model and it looks great not sure what grade its supposed to be it didnt say on the box but im very pleased again thanks
December 14, 2008 at 5:34 PM
yo dude! thanks for the tips!it really help me out to remove and hide the nubs..
December 14, 2008 at 8:49 PM
1 question though, i just bought a MG inf justice and almost all of the parts are colored in red. can i still use pencil on the panels? will it be still visible? thanks a lot dude! rock on!
December 15, 2008 at 1:02 AM
It’s barely visible because pencil lead is kinda like a light gray. Best to use the gundam markers for dark colored pieces.
December 15, 2008 at 1:13 AM
alright i’ll do that.. i dont wanna mess up that “GODLY” beauty so its better to ask an expert.. thanks a lot for your help and time! rock on!
December 17, 2008 at 6:52 PM
yo man another question. i bought a gray gundam marker for my inf justice but in some panels the tip of the marker doesn’t fit at all so i have to repeat the inking again (thanks to the rubbing alcohol technique) is there a specific point for the markers like .01 or .03 etc.? thanks in advance dude
December 17, 2008 at 10:50 PM
for narrower panel lines, I just roll and twist my gundam marker (without forcing it down) on it until the ink bleeds inside then run the marker along the line. Another way I do it is use my real touch marker to do the lines (they are soft brush markers so it’s easier).
December 17, 2008 at 11:18 PM
alright thanks man appreciate it very much. to be honest this is the 1st time im gonna use a gundam marker. what i use before to ink the lines of my endless waltz series is a .01 tech pen although its an effective tool i didn’t get the lighter lines that i wanted.. well anyways thanks for your advice and kudos to all your works.. ^-^
January 6, 2009 at 11:25 PM
i bet the pics of white parts are from your exia model
January 7, 2009 at 2:30 AM
yup
January 13, 2009 at 10:00 PM
Great reading. Some good advice in there, particularly about taking your time and planning. Glad I found your blog, thanks to plamoaddiction’s blog, thanks to danny choo I think.
January 14, 2009 at 2:47 AM
hehe thanks for dropping by ^^. This page is actually incomplete and i’m still planning on updating it soon (hopefully).
January 18, 2009 at 5:17 PM
video tutorial of nub removal! =D jk
January 20, 2009 at 12:52 AM
[...] Gundam model Kit Guide 2 [...]
January 27, 2009 at 4:48 AM
Actually guys there is a very effective way that I’ve used to make the panel lines thinner even with a wide nibbed pen:
Need
1.whiteboard marker(black)
2.Cotton bud
3.panel lining marker
First, do your panel lining and allow ink to dry
then you dab the whiteboard marker tip on one end of the cotton bud
wipe the panel line with the inked end of the bud
NOTE!!! don’t be alarmed if you see a very wide, ugly blotch
Allow the whole blotch to dry
then wipe off with the clean end of the bud
result will be a thin line or thin detail
this method is great for areas where thin lines are spaced close together like on the underside of some master grade model’s armour. Will make the fine lines black but the space between the lines the colour of the plastic.
Hope this helps :)
January 30, 2009 at 12:32 PM
[...] you are looking for some help how to assembly gunplas then I recommend that you visit those links: Fudoushin FichtenFoo there are in my opinion one of the simplest and the best tutorials how to assembly [...]
March 10, 2009 at 8:43 AM
How do you remove nubs with files? I tried with my new files and they really chew away at the entire edge instead of just the nub.
March 10, 2009 at 7:26 PM
my files are small enough to fit right on top of the nub and I make sure it is parallel with the surface of the piece so I won’t shave off more than I needed to ^^
March 10, 2009 at 8:21 PM
Great site ^_^
Anywho, where did you get your supplies? And what kinda camera you rockin’? Thanks ^_^
March 10, 2009 at 8:36 PM
got my stuff at rainbowten and hlj. cameras: Canon SX100 for WIP photos, Canon XSi for photoshoot :D
March 11, 2009 at 5:52 AM
Thanks. Planning to get some kits to practise nub removal and painting before I move on to the ever dreadful Sinaju. ^_^;;
March 17, 2009 at 4:39 AM
Hi Z,
Would like to ask you, do you have any tips to clean up paint that went off the track ? I can’t clean with a cloth dipped in thinner as it will wipe off more paint that I would want to. I tried using a paint brush, but this only manages to thin out the paint, leaving a “water mark”.
March 17, 2009 at 11:37 AM
If possible, use masking tape to isolate the area you want to paint. Otherwise, use a cottonbud lightly dampened with thinner/alcohol to wipe the spot. If you need more precision, use a toothpick and wrap a piece of paper towel around then dip that in alcohol/thinner and wipe as necessary.
March 18, 2009 at 6:17 AM
Thanks for the tip Z, will try that on my next kit.
March 23, 2009 at 2:37 PM
Hello Z. Great site here. Long time fan, first time poster.
My question is that what kind of cutters are you using? I got your “secondary” Tamiya one from a local shop, but I’m wondering which ones are the ones you use for the outer armor. (the top one)
March 23, 2009 at 10:28 PM
Since your cutter is new, you can basically use that for the outside too. I use the Tamiya Sharp-pointed side cutter.
April 1, 2009 at 6:58 PM
hm, I use Sharpie and White-out for my models and it produces the same results as if you used paint and Gundam Markers. And I use a regular scssor to cut out the parts from the rails and it still gets the job done. A lotta ppl critizise me about using Sharpie and White out, but it gets the job done with awsome results. (I get so many complaints on my YouTube account where I do reviews, but then again, I get supporters too!)
April 19, 2009 at 2:43 AM
Bravo! definitely got my gundam “addiction” starting up again.. lol
April 26, 2009 at 10:35 PM
Been looking at this blog for a few weeks and I just want to say how big of a help it is. I just recently started getting into Gunpla and this guide really helped me a lot (though I am by no means past the ‘noob’ level, but hopefully that’ll change once I get more models and tools ^^’), and your model reviews also help me choose what I’d like to buy.
Keep up the good work, man. :)
April 27, 2009 at 12:53 AM
Thanks for checking this place out. Great to know that this can be some sort of help to you :). Feel free to ask more questions whenever you run into something.
(gotta keep kickin’ myself to update this page…)
April 28, 2009 at 8:33 AM
hi z.. great website.. wanna ask u a ques n hope u can provide me d answer.. i been thinking of doin spraying on d gundam.. using can spray.. but b4 i spray wat should i do.. n after i spray do i need 2 apply any protective layer?? n wat does top coat can spray does? hope u can provide me information bout it.. thx a lot n appreciate it.. =)
April 29, 2009 at 11:26 PM
If you want, you can get some primer and lightly go over the parts with it to make the paint stick better. Spraying directly onto the plastic itself is fine too but paint can chip easily. After spraying (and letting it dry completely), if you want (again) then you can spray top coat (matte or gloss, your choice) to protect the paint and give the model a better finish.
May 4, 2009 at 8:40 AM
ohh thx a lot.. 1 more ques..after spraying should i draw d line 1st n then oni do top coat or either i should top coat after i spray then oni draw d line. which should come 1st?? n 4 shinning gold spray wat can u suggest?? matte or semi gloss or gloss? coz i read some about d sinanju that dun do top coat flat on it.. coz i will look ugly. is it?? neway thx 4 ur previous information.. appreciate it a lot.. now i doin d inner frame of gundam freedom n plan 2 spray d inner frame v gold..=) hope it will be good..
May 4, 2009 at 9:53 PM
I think Semi-gloss might look better than matte on Sinanju’s hot red. Or whichever one you think looks better. Top coat is the very last thing you’ll be applying.
May 4, 2009 at 9:58 PM
oh.. okie.. thx a lot.. appreciate it.. so did u do any spray b4 on any gundam?? or painting??
May 5, 2009 at 11:20 AM
It is nice to see someone who also like the Exia. I just finished mine at http://www.openhappy.com/hobby/exia_1_60_ng_ps.php It is load of fun sanding down those seam lines.
May 5, 2009 at 11:49 PM
[...] My Tools [...]
May 6, 2009 at 2:05 AM
Nice page, but don’t you hate it to work on the ground? How is your back after a MG? Really I am glad I have some sort of desk I work at… (I don’t have much space so it’s all crammed into one small bookshelf) Something like this: http://pim.trimm.nl/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/166__dsc5186_1.jpg
May 6, 2009 at 3:17 PM
hmm,…..you ever heard of mr mark SOFTER?
any difference between setter and softer? does setter also make the edges of the water decals “melt” away?
May 6, 2009 at 8:57 PM
I would also like to point out if you’re sanding a part(especially with a filer), remember to wear a dust mask just protect yourself from inhaling the dust :X. Better be safe than sorry.
May 6, 2009 at 10:32 PM
Richard, that’s some impressive weathering job there ^^
Pim, nah… I actually prefer the ground because of the space but that’s a pretty sweet setup you have here. Very organize o_o
Acedude, yea i have. It makes it softer so it can wrap around bends and stuff. The setter “sets” it down. I think the setter also does the same job to a certain degree so I didn’t bother having both.
Kururu, I don’t file that hard ^^; just scrap scrap and I’m done usually but I’ll keep that in mind!
May 7, 2009 at 10:21 PM
What kind of filers do you use?
May 8, 2009 at 12:19 AM
haha wish I can answer that question for myself… I never looked at the package when I bought it ^^;. I just saw that it was fine and thin so I picked it up.
May 8, 2009 at 11:44 PM
Well I like all of your models. They seem perfectly built. Do you wash your plastic pieces with a detergent before add decals and topcoat? I heard from somewhere the pieces have some sort of oil on them that prevents paint from adhering well. I’m just trying to find shortcuts to building a clean model.
May 9, 2009 at 8:13 AM
hey, you used my name how it’s supposed to be.
acedude-yeah.
Or you call for my attention, “Ace Dude!”
“yeah?” haha
kururu, I just hold my breathe and inhale when I pause to wipe away and see I haven’t strayed from the nub.
anyways, I have a really noob question. so I completed my OYW(yay!!) and now I’m making his action base stand.
on the instructions, there is a dotted line saying where to cut the little holder pieces that you stick up under to hold mobile suits by their hip/leg joints.
Is trimming that holder part necessary for every model or you just trim to fit whatever model you’re trying to put on?
I don’t want to trim the holder and then come across a model that is too big for it.
May 10, 2009 at 10:21 AM
Boshi, nah… I don’t do anything like that. Just apply and go.
Acedudeyea,you just trim to fit whatever model. I actually don’t trim any of them and MGs now include its own connector for it.
May 18, 2009 at 8:53 PM
I’m having a hard time finding waterslide decals. I found some at gundamstoreandmore.com but I don’t know if it’s safe to buy from there. HLJ takes to long. What do you think Z?
May 18, 2009 at 10:57 PM
Gundamstoreandmore is actually very reliable and fast. and I know… their site doesn’t really look like it.
May 19, 2009 at 4:36 PM
whenever u or anyone orders from gundamstoreandmore, anyone ever gotten their orders shipped to them without the original packaging? they took the runners out of the boxes for my HGUC GMs and just stuffed ‘em in a postal box. I was annoyed.
May 22, 2009 at 1:18 PM
I remember asking you before about tools I could get around the corner if I couldn’t get fancy ones at the moment. Around at the same time, the only one I tried out and experimented with were sharpie markers. I already had a couple, but I bought an ultra fine point one and toyed around with using the normal ones to make some parts of my 1/144 Sandrock custom model black and used the ultra fine point to dot this or maybe blacken the area round the eyes of the head, make the completely-red exhaust red-and-black, etc. I recently started toying around with panel lining and while it seems so-so (I think the panel lining on built models seen on Dalong seem a bit overkill), and not even that on smaller panel lines (which I try and make it so by rubbing my thumb over it before it becomes permanant), it might not be a bad idea. I’ve also recently seen similar sharpies of multiple colors, both normal and ultra fine-point (I believe I did), and thought of getting it. While my Sandrock’s looking so-so, I’m thinking as I experiment on it that it may not be such a bad idea.
I know you have the proper tools to get every single detail done basically right (without being a nitpicker about it all, or so professional you could sand the parts and repaint the whole thing and make it look super-cool). But what would you think of doing something like this?
May 22, 2009 at 11:12 PM
Acedudeyeah, hmm…that has never happened to me before o_0. I would be hella pissed if they left out the box!
Siroh32, I actually know which sharpie pen you are talking about. Even though they are “ultra-fine”, I still find them to be a bit too thick for my liking ^^;.
May 23, 2009 at 8:45 AM
Well, I tend to agree. Again, there are panel lines on the Sandrock (and I’m sure on the Altron as well) that are ultra-er than my ultra-fine marker, and I had to work on minimizing it all after applying some panel lines on Sandrock (which, again, looks so-so when using black markers). Too bad when I tried messing around with the heat shotels that I broke one of the handles, so I’ll have to use a couple of specific hands now when dealing with the shotels. But I’m digressing…
Sometime sooner or later, I’d like to get a pack of those sharpies and using them here and there in place of paint. Might not be the best substitute, but I’d just like to try them out.
May 23, 2009 at 12:24 PM
Just a thought… how about using a cotton bud w/ alcohol to wipe the sharpie line after you apply it?
May 23, 2009 at 12:32 PM
I might try it, but I was just using my thumb with a little bit of moist for minimizing it not long after applying it.
May 23, 2009 at 8:08 PM
Hey Z,
I was just wondering whenever I apply topcoat to a gundam that has been panel lined with fine tip gundam markers the panel lines always seem to run off the plastic…
Is there anything I can do to prevent the topcoat from making the panel lines run off??
May 23, 2009 at 9:37 PM
Really? Your top coat does that? That haven’t happened to me before. What brand of top coat are you using?
May 24, 2009 at 12:16 AM
Im using the Tamiya brand TS-80 flat topcoat
May 25, 2009 at 11:58 AM
I haven’t used that one before so I cant say for sure. How about letting your parts sit for awhile to let the ink dry a bit before spraying?
May 25, 2009 at 1:21 PM
I top coated a kit that I panel lined like 2 years ago and it still has the same effect of the gundam marker running off the plastic O_O
May 27, 2009 at 4:32 PM
How far away are you spraying from?
May 28, 2009 at 3:56 PM
around 30 cm or so
May 29, 2009 at 4:23 PM
Will the Tamiya brand coats all do that to all of the gundam markers? I have a pearl coat that I’m thinking of using… Also, does any one know how well the coats work with Enamel paint?
I’m in need of a new side cutter and file, but the total pricing for the tools is a bit much…Does the Tamiya Basic Tool (http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam74016.htm) set work or should I save up and get the individual Tamiya tools?
May 29, 2009 at 4:24 PM
What is the mm diameter of your files Z?
May 29, 2009 at 11:22 PM
Drago, wish I can answer your questions about the Tamiya top coat but I haven’t used any before ^^;. As for that set… I don’t recommend it. Don’t really like the look of that cutter and I think you’d be better off with a straight tweezer. And I’m sure you already have screwdrivers at home. Though that set is a good price. Just save up a little more and grab a better cutter. I don’t know how fine my files are because I threw the package away years ago ^^;
May 30, 2009 at 12:36 AM
I think I’ll look around eBay for a sharp side cutter. I’ll probably buy the basic file set as well, since it includes the three types. Just hope it’s not too wide.
May 30, 2009 at 5:47 AM
That Tamiya toolset’s tweezers are the same kind I use. It’s handy to have a pair of bent tweezers in a Tamiya kit, as some parts that are tiny sometimes have to be inserted into really tight places or awkward angles – usually happens more in Tamiya kits than most Gundam ones I’ve seen, though. It may be handy to have this type and a straight type.
The Nipper there is also the same kind I use. A little later on, I got a Bandai toolkit. I’ve seen two versions of those – one has a universal screwdriver and one has a sticker applicator in lieu of the screwdriver.
June 10, 2009 at 8:48 PM
Hey, thanks for all that useful information on some of the tools, I am kind of a newbie… i have done 4 MG gundams now including the Unicorn, so i am getting the hang of it, i purchased some top coat the other day to take my models t the next level but the topcoat makes the gundam markers bleed, i have only tested it on a beam rifle so-far, so no harm has come to my gundam. Have you had this problem? Any advice to avoid this?
June 11, 2009 at 10:03 PM
hmm… you’re the second person telling me about this. Can’t really help you here because I never had that problem. Are you also using Tamiya top coat?
June 16, 2009 at 4:44 PM
Hey Z, is Testor’s Dullcoate the same thing as Topcoat? (Cant find any of Topcoat in my area).
Also I wasn’t specific when I asked about how you applied your matte coate on the models. Do you take piece by piece like as in arms, legs, head, chest, etc. or take the whole model apart and spray?
Thanks again Z! Great help as always xD.
June 16, 2009 at 8:36 PM
I have some doubts about the water transfer decals. what if I dip it in the water for too long? and it goes on like a tatoo rite? dip in water, put on plastic, hold…then take off and the decal is on? Oh, and what if i mess up? Is it like the dry transfer where if u mess up you’re screwed for life?
June 16, 2009 at 11:06 PM
no..if your waterslide decal stays in the water for too long (for minutes), then it’ll just come off of its backing. It is not a tattoo. It is more like a sticker really that needs water to adhere. If you mess up… well, just wet it inside and reposition it. Chances are… you can’t really mess up waterslides.
June 17, 2009 at 12:49 AM
Unless you rip one by mistake – those darn things are thinner than paper. But they do look the best on a model. I’m spoiled by waterslide decals ^_^
Funny story – early on when I started assembling plastic kits I was doing a rally car, and I was so lazy that I deliberately left not one, but TWO decal sheets in a pan of water, then went to eat lunch. I was expecting them to slide off the sheets easily once I got back. Imaging my shock to find all my decals swimming around the pan like multicolored fishes!! ^^;
June 17, 2009 at 2:43 AM
Must\’ve been awesome trying to fish them out without breaking xD
June 20, 2009 at 12:13 AM
Huwaaa.. You’re a big help! Lately I’ve been to scared to work on my models after I had an accident with my RX-79 and 78 Protoype *bloodwasshed*. I always find cleaning the nubs a big pain in the ass. Sometimes I get too lazy sanding them off.
I’m getting ready to work on Sinanju and RX-0.. But I really feel intimidated. I dont like the gold stickers *notgoodwithstickers* and I feel like I might thrash the kits if I paint them. I really suck when it comes to painting. ;_;
June 20, 2009 at 8:22 PM
Im a beginner, your tutorial help me soooo much!
June 30, 2009 at 4:10 AM
Hello,
Very good tutorial, actually answered some questions I hadn’t seen before on other tutorials.
I just have 2 minor questions though. Where can I get some files like that, and the tweezers too?
Thanks :D
June 30, 2009 at 8:41 PM
What happen when u apply top coats on gold and chrome parts? Or I should avoid those parts? Thanks
June 30, 2009 at 10:56 PM
Icetron, you can check your general hobby store and you might find it. They’re everywhere.
Bluey, avoid. otherwise they’ll blur/white out… looks like crap.
July 3, 2009 at 5:30 PM
Question; I’ve found a local hobby store that carries Tamiya spray paints. Is their clear and matte top coat, as well as any of the other coloured sprays safe for models?
I’ve built up a large collection, but have been scared to death of painting of them. ^_^;;
July 25, 2009 at 6:43 PM
hey men where did you buy the water transfer decals men ?
July 25, 2009 at 11:58 PM
Descry, well… they are for model use…
jeremiah, try hlj.com?
July 28, 2009 at 5:23 PM
Hey Z, I’ve been reading your blog for a couple of days now, and I just wanna say that I like it VERY much! This tutorial is very helpful since I want to make my gundams look good, but not have to paint them. I have a question, have you ever used Krylon Clear Coats? I want to know if it’s any good or not.. I heard it’s almost the same as Topcoat, but a hell of a lot cheaper, and it’s available at Walmart.
July 29, 2009 at 12:08 AM
Hey ExiaR3, thanks for checking this place out ^^. I haven’t look into american hobby products yet so I can’t comment on that. I will try out some new domestic products in the future though and let everyone know what’s up.
July 29, 2009 at 6:28 AM
btw Z, I think you said you usually get your stuff through rainbowten but I just ordered some topcoat via HLJ and had no issues at all.
July 29, 2009 at 6:54 AM
oops, forgot to log in…
July 29, 2009 at 8:23 AM
I’m trying some krylon matte finish top coat spray right now. Lookin’ pretty good for 5 bucks for a big can.
July 29, 2009 at 1:10 PM
You should make a video on nub removal :P, it would be really helpful
July 29, 2009 at 2:16 PM
Acedudeyeah, do show some pics when you have the chance please ^^
ExiaR3, there are many better nub removal videos out there than I could ever make ^^; Gotta find links…
July 29, 2009 at 2:19 PM
Lupes, so did you actually receive the cans?
July 29, 2009 at 2:50 PM
Still awaiting the package (sal shipping is so slow, urgh), but I’m hoping that if there was some sort of problem they’d alert me. I’ll let you know when it does get here, though.
July 29, 2009 at 6:13 PM
k, I imagine you can wait till your cans from japan run out right?
I tested it out on an empty runner I painted, soo the thin poles that make up a runner wouldn’t show it much.
The actual pieces are near painting completion though. ^^
July 30, 2009 at 5:32 PM
What happens if you don’t use Mr. Mark Setter with water decals? Will they slip off when they’re dry? Is it essential?
Thanks!
July 30, 2009 at 10:40 PM
it is not essential but yes, the decals might have an ever so slight chance of it falling off… and you’ll never find it again. I would know… it happened to me before.
August 3, 2009 at 12:35 AM
Hi Z, really neat tutorial you got here. I suck at decals and I have both the Sinanju and Unicorn waiting to be build. Its scary just looking at the number of decals… Gonna try cutting out the markings when I do them. ^^ Can add you to my blog roll? thx!
August 4, 2009 at 5:34 AM
hey men were di you buy the plies the non stratch ang one thing is it really hard to assemble the shinanju gundam ver.ka i have one but i really get tips from before i begin my shinanju
August 6, 2009 at 8:38 PM
That sucks about the topcoat sprays from Japan. I actually at first didn’t really know the difference between the two Mr. Hobby sprays and got the wrong one, since lacquer would have been bad for some of my models. I’m actually trying to get rid of an extra can of Mr. Super Clear Flat on eBay right now…
August 11, 2009 at 2:18 AM
Thanks for answering my last questions.
Also wondering. Have you ever used a black panel line marker on white? How does it look? I imagine it might be too contrasty?
I’ve ordered a grey one, but HLJ takes a while with SAL shipping and all… and I want to start soon!
August 12, 2009 at 9:30 PM
Hey Z, juss read your tutorial, and I have to say, you’ve quite a lot on your hands. Hahha I really found this stuff interesting, I actually juss finished putting my Crossbone Ver. Ka together today, that is without paint and decals, only paint I did was for the head “scars”.
Also I’m currently using toe nail nippers(XDDD) and a box cutter(Parental Guidence is needed with this) to cut and clean my pieces. So far it works perfectly, given a few nub “craters” here and there. I’ll try this tutorial out on my next Gunpla.
One more thing, seam lines. None of the example pics have any at all I noticed, whats the trick? I might upload pics of my assembled Ver. Ka, maybe you can check it out.
August 13, 2009 at 2:39 AM
Shinra, yes I’ve used black on white before… I don’t like it. It’s not so much the constrast but more like I just don’t like dark panel lines.
Ahya, the seam lines? You can thank Bandai for that sometimes ^^;. Do show your X-Bone Ver. Ka to us all :D
August 13, 2009 at 3:43 AM
I have been using black panel liners all the time >.<. Cause i dont like the grey ones, they are a little bit watery.
August 13, 2009 at 6:27 AM
Ah, forgot to bring a camera and my phone to my mom in law’s house… ugh my bad guys. Um at the moment I’m trying to add a few color corrections to the parts that need it(eg: Core Fighter, Beam Saber hilt.) I’m trying that rubbing alcohol thing, works almost perfectly, thanks for the tip.
Hopefully I’ll get some pics up later today. c:
August 13, 2009 at 6:27 AM
Z, can you please add how to use water slide decals on your ‘My tools”? I am facing alot of problems with the water decals.
August 13, 2009 at 6:30 AM
ops, saw your tutorial already! Sorry XD
August 13, 2009 at 1:42 PM
~yawn~ It’s been a long day but I was able to upload a few pics of my X-Bone Ver.Ka only shots of what’s done so far. Sorry I don’t have like a white wall or anything and my wall is purple. Hahha Had to use the space on top of my lil’ fridge to take shots.
Enjoy what I’ve taken, http://s927.photobucket.com/albums/ad112/RathyaSam/X-/
August 13, 2009 at 11:14 PM
Ahya, very nice. I like your purple wall too ^^. Are you going to complete it with the Ver. Ka decals/stickers?
August 14, 2009 at 8:20 AM
Hahha thanks. To be honest I fear all those stickers and decals. I haven’t even stuck em’ onto my Wing Ver. Ka nor on my Zero. It’ll make it look better I know… but it’s friggin’ scary. Hahha
August 14, 2009 at 10:25 AM
Ah, sorry to double post but I was wondering about painting, any tips? Any prep work before paint or juss paint straight on. I use acrylic paint does that matter in anyway?
No thinner either, but I’m not sure how it matters. My wife said thinner does something, juss never paid any attention. Hahha any help will be good. Thanks in advance, sir!
August 14, 2009 at 11:39 AM
I use acrylic. It’s easier to clean. No tips on painting from me because I can’t paint even if my model’s life depends on it. As long as the paint can easily drip down from the brush, I just dip and brush away.
August 14, 2009 at 8:23 PM
Ah I see, so you juss go with the flow. Hahha , cause I painted part of the X-Bone. It looks totally better but the paint has like a clumping affect, cant seem to give it an even coat. Bah but Its coming together hahha.
I have work all week until weds. so I’ll try to finish the touch ups then, and yes add decals too. When I get a chance I’ll snap a few shots to show. I’ll also have to order some top coat to seal in the good stuff. So hopefully 2 weeks it’ll be complete. c:
August 14, 2009 at 8:34 PM
Thinning paint keeps it from drying up in clumpyness like you just described.
I like thinned paint cause I can just let down a mini-flood(very mini) can be sure I’ve got a covering coat that will dry up evenly.
Alcohol works great as an acrylic paint thinner. 90 percent beats 70 percent. Be sure to keep adding a drop or 2 every few minutes cause the alcohol will evaporate.
Acrylic paint usually isn’t very permanent, where a scratch or wrong rub will make the paint come off your plastic. This is were top coating comes in. Seals in the paint and makes it permanent. Just be sure your parts don’t fall off your desk and chip off some paint in the corner that’ll be a pain to fix and make it look like the rest of the part again! ARGH, stupid delays everywhere on my Wing Ka., but it’s coming out veeeery nicely.
August 14, 2009 at 9:01 PM
^He speaks the truth
August 15, 2009 at 6:06 PM
Sweet, that’s good to know, but on a few parts wouldn’t the paint leak/flow onto it. I know I’m asking a lot hahha, but I would like to have some more knowledge before I end screwing up. There are small clumps but I can over look it cause it doesn’t show much on such a small area.
Ah, I’d like to see your Wing Ka. Mine has been collecting dust for the longest. Melting by my PS3. :c Thanks for the info.
Also want a new Gunpla, deciding between HG1/100 Red Frame, or a MG, probably Hi-Nu, Nu, or Aile Strike. :/
August 15, 2009 at 9:07 PM
Oooh. I’ve developed a method to making clumps disappear. I’m kind of a perfectionist when it comes to Gunpla(and only), haha.
What do you mean leak/flow into it? Are you painting the parts individually or did u already assemble your Gundam?
Or do you mean you’re trying to paint a single part more than one color?
Anyways, for the clumps you can brush a coat of pure thinner(or whatever you use as thinner) and keep repeating till it smooths out as desired. MY method is take a hobby knife and scrape it. Not really scrape. More like just make contact. It’s like you’re challenging yourself to a contest of keeping contact with the knife to your part, but so lightly that you’re trying to keep as least atoms of the knife from making contact while STILL making contact. So just atomically barely touch your knife blade flat and perpendicular(that means at 90 degrees) with your part and just move it back and forth(if I used the word scrape you might apply pressure. bad).Make sure your paint is dry. Be very sure. If not you’ll make more clumps or knife-prints when u attempt.
Or you could sand with reeeally fine sandpaper. But I like my knife method for clumps. It’s like sniping/laser surgery on your gunpla! (How big are your clumps? Mine are like needle point size. If big, like a pencil eraser size, then maybe sand paper. Outta luck though on them curved parts with knifing.)
Soon. When it’s finished. Or I might get impatient and show off the ooh-ness of it. haha
You should get a PG Red frame. HA!
August 16, 2009 at 7:45 AM
Sorry I wasn’t more specific, I mean like on X-Bone’s shoulders are those ring vents. The surface area is so small so its hard to kinda juss, let the paint drip and flow. hahha clumps aren’t to big juss pencil point sized so no biggie.
Whoa Whoa I got a budget here sir, hahha. A PG is to much, but the PG Red Frame is in my near future though(Xmas present from the misses plz xxb). But at the moment need something cheap and good. HG Sazabi and Nu? Two birds with less than 50 bucks? Hahha
August 16, 2009 at 12:52 PM
hmmm, my suggestion is give your ring vents 1 layer of barely thinned paint. Just cover up the area(brush, not flood). Then when it dries, take a knife and clean off the yellow off of the places where it’s not supposed to be. (basically the rest of the shoulder. haha)
So now you have a good base coat of yellow for your thinned coats to stick to instead of just yellow. Thinned coats will give it a nicer finish.
August 16, 2009 at 8:00 PM
I also got a solution to that…. but I was too lazy to implement it because the full cloth will cover the shoulder anyway.. >_>. Anyway, just take the circle with yellow as neatly as you can then use your black gundam marker to fill in the lines/cover up the yellow that is not supposed to be there. Do clean the tip of your pen after that
August 17, 2009 at 12:21 AM
Hi there, can I use Mr.Super Clear instead of topcoat? cause I can’t find it anywhere in my area.
August 17, 2009 at 12:49 AM
hmm…never used that before so I can’t say anything ^^;. Hope someone else can tip in.
August 18, 2009 at 12:43 AM
I’ve been tired of using gundam markers…so i decided to start to use paint XD….One question though, after painting the model… What is the proper way to clean the brush? Cause the thinner is expensive>.<, i dont want to waste too much of them….
August 18, 2009 at 6:25 PM
HI z what did you do first ahhh puting decals on gundam before you put top coat or you spray it top coat before you put decals?^^
August 18, 2009 at 7:39 PM
kkte use rubbing alcohol, it’s pretty affective. thinner is the same thing I think juss a few different solution mixed in, I think. Hahha
And thanks AceDudeyeah, I have a nice coat of paint on my X-Bone Ka. It looks pretty good but a few more touches of detail painting and I can add the decals. Still cant figure out what kind of top coat to use though, there’s no Hobby store in my area and I’m to broke to do any online shopping…
August 18, 2009 at 9:36 PM
kkte, 99% rubbing alcohol works wonder with acrylic. Makes me wonder why I ever bothered with the thinner…
Jeremiah, read the top coat section
Ahya, matte is the way to go for Ver. Ka! Wish I can help you go about finding the stuff locally though… since I still can’t even find them at stores myself…..
August 18, 2009 at 9:53 PM
Well there is an A.C. Moore a drive away from my house but I go there to buy my paints, and the spray finishes they sell I’m not so sure of. It says “works well with acrylic” but nothing more. The employees there also don’t seem to know much either.
Hmm, guess I’ll do some reading on it. :/
August 18, 2009 at 11:11 PM
How in the world can you cut the clear stickers that finely D:
I tried doing mine: First cut, perfect, second cut, perfect, third cut, the sticker starts slipping out and I can’t make any more cuts…Any tips?
August 19, 2009 at 2:32 AM
Ahya, if it “works well with acrylic” and if it is cheap then I guess it is well worth a try at least?
Goroke, change your blade ^^
August 19, 2009 at 3:06 AM
hey whats your primary cutter? mind sending me a link?
August 19, 2009 at 8:29 AM
Yeah I might try it. Then my gunpla will start melting after I spray it. Hahha XXD That would so suck, but I’ll give it a try.
When are you gonna start that MG Hi-Nu? If you’re to lazy to do it, I’m a willing buyer. c: hahha
August 27, 2009 at 4:30 AM
Guys, any suggestion on what paint should i use to paint my the gundams Thrusters? Please give me the brand and code thx^^
August 27, 2009 at 5:01 AM
Tamiya Gunmetal X-10 works pretty well for thrusters.
August 27, 2009 at 10:53 PM
^I second that!
August 30, 2009 at 9:03 AM
hey Z or any fellow modellers.. i have a question.. its regarding spray painting and primer for the internal frame.. im using spray cans tho.. im not sure whether to prime/paint every single part (small parts tt gets partly hidden) or to prime the whole piece (i.e. the entire leg frame or body frame) and risk those flexing parts not primed/painted… ahhh..
2nd question is.. im gonna hand paint the eye and sensor part of a gundam.. you noe.. the transparent piece for the eyes.. ive gotten the acrylic mr hobby paint.. black and clear-wadeva-colour and thinner.. wad is the paint-thinner ratio? 4 parts paint and 6 part thinner? i think im oso gonna get the backside of the eye piece painted silver to get a reflection off the clear yellow eyes.. wad do you guys think? maybe Z can include these detailed parts in his tutorial.. i can hardly find it out on the web…
im sort of stuck pondering abt these… so.. any advise would realli help me!! thanks alot guys.. let’s MAKE BETTER MODELS!!
August 30, 2009 at 4:32 PM
Hi Pong, I don’t think I can answer the first part cos I never paint the internals ( I am assuming you are referring to MGs). I just flat coat and dry brush. As for handpainting I did on some parts long ago and heres the link. Just copy and paste
http://chubbybots.wordpress.com/2009/08/01/kochu-gundam-wip-3-ikimasu/
The ratio I used was 50 : 50 paint to thinner. I used Mr hobby lacquer cos its give better coverage but also less prone to getting scratches. For hand painting you need a slightly thicker paint. And silver and the back of the eyes will help in the reflection. Hope this helps ^^
August 30, 2009 at 7:06 PM
oh i see.. cool!!!.. well i onli have acrylic.. im still confused over how acrylic, enamal and lacquer reacts to each other.. realli need to find out wad can be coated over wad without it causing problems.. thanks chubbybots so much for your advise.. i’ll try it out and let you guys noe how it goes! =)
August 30, 2009 at 8:42 PM
What? You need to put thinner together with the paint? I only paint with pure paint without adding anything…….Is mixing the thinner with paint neccesary?
August 30, 2009 at 9:04 PM
Depends on the type of paint you are using, I have read before that some brands don’t need thinning and you can use straight out of the jar. But for Mr Hobby Lacquer Paints it will require thinning. Other wise the paint will be thick and you will get clumps at the edges.
August 31, 2009 at 12:28 AM
Thx for the info!
August 31, 2009 at 6:49 AM
Unfortunately my local hobby store does not sell tamiya’s paints….they only sell mr hobby’s….Can anyone tell me which mr hobby is the best for thrusters?
August 31, 2009 at 12:34 PM
Yeah, thinned paint doesn’t dry with brush strokes.
Uhhh….p0ng, you can go here for your in-depth paint questions. They really got knowledgable guys there.
http://forum.bakuc.com/index.php/board,14.0.html
I’d like to know the same as KKTE, hobbywave only sells mr. hobby. haha
August 31, 2009 at 5:13 PM
You can try Mr Hobby Metal colors aluminum and chrome silver. But I mainly used it for dry brushing. Just did it on my exia recently.
http://chubbybots.wordpress.com/2009/08/21/mg-exia-wip-phase-3/
Hope it helps.
September 1, 2009 at 1:01 PM
^That looks pretty awesome :D
September 1, 2009 at 5:21 PM
Z, what models do you have that have had their thrusters painted silver?
September 1, 2009 at 5:52 PM
@ z Thanks ^^!
September 1, 2009 at 11:02 PM
Acedudeyeah, none that I can think of… xD. Closest one would be my MG Unicorn.
September 4, 2009 at 1:32 PM
I gotta ask u a question. I have a metallic gundam marker set. For like gold and silver, red green and blu etc. I’m trying to build the Sinanju and i’m hoping to use the Gold for the outlines instead of stickers, but i usually get like gold blotches… and silver etc. I saw your Red Astray HG and it was like PERFECT. How did u get it done?
September 4, 2009 at 10:58 PM
hmm… did you shake it well enough? Shake it hard for a good ten minutes. I noticed metallic Gmarkers are usually the worst when it comes to being…what’s the word…separated? when it sits for too long. Shake it hard and well to get the paint blend together again so it’ll be able to run smoothly. Let me know if that helps or show me a pic of what’s happening ^^
September 7, 2009 at 7:52 PM
Ok lol. Thanks very much. I’ll try and see if that works.
September 8, 2009 at 3:55 AM
I’ve read though your kit reviews and read a lot about how toxic is the top coat spray. So far i never top coated my gunplas yet and i’m preparing to use a standard acrylic lacquer (gloss) coat on my MG Unicorn (wanted it to glossy anyway)… Is it really that toxic? I mean, how’s the smell like… Cyanide? lol… Wanna get maybe half a dozen…
September 16, 2009 at 8:28 PM
Great guide, now I don’t have excuses for not building my gundams.
September 17, 2009 at 1:45 AM
hi! just a question, between tamiya top coat matt and mr super clear flat, which is better ?
September 17, 2009 at 2:10 AM
@ tim I used both before. I prefer MR super clear flat (lacquer based, the one that is grey in color) because it does not cost fogging even when sprayed at night.
September 17, 2009 at 9:16 PM
I haven’t used super clear flat before (because it’s a bit more expensive) but I heard it should be used best on painted surfaces? I’ve also never used tamiya’s version either ^^;. Sorry I couldn’t help much xD
September 18, 2009 at 2:16 AM
I’m actually concerned whether a painted surface can accept any decals on its surface. If I use dry decals, i might scratch the painted surface, if i use water decal, will the mark setter do any harm to the painted surface??? I plan to buy the crap-looking MG Full Armor ZZ and give it a whole new paint job, metallic on the blue, red, and grey surface and glossy coat for the white, black and yellow sections. So, this will be the first time i do a total “refurnish” on a gunpla and these are my main concerns.
September 18, 2009 at 4:43 PM
For the dry decals use a round edge object like a back of a pencil to etch the decal. Fingernails can be a good substitute ^^. Since you are using metallic colors the surface should be quite good enough for your water decals. Don’t think mark setter will be necessary though. Just put a few layers of gloss after the decal to seal it in.
Just my 2 cents
September 18, 2009 at 4:46 PM
Painted surfaces will accept dry decals… just take a little more dedicated rubbing. You should ask lupes about applying water decals on painted surfaces since he applied the whole sheet of Sinanju’s water decals on his Sinanblu.
September 26, 2009 at 10:52 AM
A video on nub removal would be nice, i haven’t been able to find any videos. Nub removal via sanding. :D
September 27, 2009 at 3:06 AM
hey z what does the tamiya thinner do? i hav it but not sure what it is used for ^^
October 1, 2009 at 6:00 AM
Just wondering that can water decals be used without mark setter? I heard that you can apply water decal directly without mark setter and apply it much later on because mark setter (and mark softer) are both out of stock at my place, and i bought Water decals for MG Strike Freedom.
October 1, 2009 at 7:26 AM
Z, can you please add another tutorial on how to seperate the mg fingers? Cause i was trying to seperate my MG f91 fingers and end up cutting my self…it was quite a severe cut though…….and the fingers are still attach…fail…can you please teach me how to seperate them? thanks
October 1, 2009 at 8:43 AM
I’m thinking a gloss coat is the most important factor for water slide application since every other tutorial on it i have read emphasizes the need of a gloss coat to prevent silvering.
@kkte: you know, the answers are plenty easy to find if you take the time to do some research on your own first. The various topics of gunpla has been well covered across the internet, just up to you to find them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3mlgIiKsmQ&feature=channel_page
Video tutorial on how to separate mg fingers.
October 1, 2009 at 8:45 AM
Forgot to mention this above:
But since Z hasn’t mentioned anything about using gloss coat before applying water slides, I’m looking forward to his reply on this as well.
October 1, 2009 at 10:35 AM
@T
because he used top coat, remember? i was just thinking whether the water deal can be used without any other additional stuff… (It doesn’t matter whether it looks likes stickers or whatsoever right now for my case) because Strike Freedom FBM is gold plated at certain parts and if i need to coat it, practically I’ll need to disassemble all the armors and spray one by one, which is time consuming… I don’t want Plated parts to be coated…
October 1, 2009 at 11:18 AM
And you can’t. Plated parts melt under topcoat. Or at least they go dull.
Z does use topcoat..after the decals are on. So far I have not heard him mention topcoating the model before applying the decals, which is my point about gloss coat.
October 2, 2009 at 1:42 AM
Woah didn’t know plated parts will melt under top coat, I thought at most they will just get dull.
@ EXkurogane Maybe you can mask those gold plated areas instead before you top coat, it will be easier than disassembling and then top coat and reassemble again. Just my 2 cents. ^^
October 2, 2009 at 2:01 AM
I think i’ll leave it the way as it is: Just apply the water decal and that’s all. Don’t care even it ends up slightly looking like stickers because i don’t want to screw up my favourite kit…
October 2, 2009 at 2:33 AM
Bare water slides application run the risk of silvering and sometimes decal edges..both which alone can make water slides look worse than stickers.
October 2, 2009 at 2:50 AM
@T
I did check out about these facts and many recommended dipping the decal in water the longer the better to loosen the glue more and make it more adhesive (but not too long of course).
After reading this i guess Water decals can be used directly.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_slide_decal
October 2, 2009 at 4:54 AM
Err… hold on, can i try brushing small amount of lacquer solution on the decal’s adhesive surface before i paste it on the gunpla?
October 3, 2009 at 12:43 AM
I saw someone painting that clear gloss lacquer on the surface before putting the decals. But painting on the decal’s adhesive surface itself I am not too sure if that will work though.
October 3, 2009 at 2:17 AM
You know, painting lacquer on the gunpla surface then put on decal… Makes the kit look weird with small glossy patches all over the kit, unless you spray the whole kit gloss, which very few people do for white colored kits…
October 3, 2009 at 4:59 AM
Hey Z, I’ve been reading your blog for about a week now, and I must say it’s great! I got into gunpla building about a month ago or so. My first was a NG 1/144 Strike which looks terrible as I’m too in-experienced to paint, and I built it with just my hands. lol, nub marks everywhere. I then jumped to a HG 1/144 Legend which looks alright I guess, but I’m still not happy with it.
I ordered a Master Grade Force Impulse from hlj (they were out of sword impulses) and it’s just arrived today. I’m going all out on this one (I’m using top coat, panel lines, decals, cutters etc) to make it look good, and I’m using all your tips. My main concern is health and safety. I hear top coat is extremely toxic, and I’m worried about filling down the parts due to dust particles and such. Have you got any tips on this?
October 3, 2009 at 6:47 AM
@ EXkurogane what they did was flat coated the whole kit after putting in the decal ^^. Kinda evens out the whole thing.
@ HeroEX I wear those disposable mask while doing any sanding. The plastic dust can accumulate in the lungs. If not you can wet sand instead, its quite effective in reducing dust storms ^^. If you are using the blue can top coat it should be relatively safe if you do it outdoors. Just sharing what I know and good luck on your first MG
October 3, 2009 at 10:35 AM
@heroex wow thats a pretty big jump from hg to mg i curerently finished my 5th hg (an astray red frame with the ng backpack) and im pretty happy with it. if your model doesnt turn out the way you want it to dont be discouraged because using alot of new techniques for the first time can have not so great results you really have to go one step at a time to get a very nice model. the key item is patience i mean it took me about two minutes for every peice on my red frame. and about your health concerns i havent really thought about my health when i buld a kit but if gunpla is going to be a long term thing for anybody i guess they should take that into consideration. i do have i couple ideas for you such as going to walmart or a similar store and buying wet grit sand paper im pretty sure you dip it into water and when you sand your piece down the excess will stick to the sand paper and you dip it into the water to remove the excess. another thing is buying a small desd fan that you can put wherever you build your gunpla and turn it on whenever your painting to blw the fumes in the other direction. and another thing(you might not have to worry about this if your model is from bandai) i know alot of knock off model brands dont use colored plastic and spray there sprues with paint and this hasnt been confirmed just me speculating but i think there a high possibility that the paints they use contain lead in them so when your cutting or sanding them the lead could be released. if you want a couple reviews of the knock off models go to youtube and search Prime92 shes been doing a whole bunch of gunpla reviews of the T.T hongli brand knock offs. just putting my thoughts out:)
October 3, 2009 at 10:38 AM
Sorry heroEx i meant desk not desd and blow not blw what is with me and typos? :/
October 3, 2009 at 10:42 AM
sorry HeroEx i meant desk not desd and blow not blw what is with me and typos? :/
October 3, 2009 at 3:00 PM
@C oh I’ve watched her(him?) not sure… A lot of kits they have, but the person beats the crap outta their kits during their reviews :/. Twisting and bending poor gunpla.
@HeroEX Dont worry about all the expensive stuff, you can get a nail/cuticle cutter cheaper alternative, and Exacto Knife and some nail files. They work fine for me, since my wife is a cosmetologist the stuff is readily available c:. Don’t worry, all finished models look good, Z has good kits and he juss top coats his gunpla a few touches of detail paint and that’s it.
October 3, 2009 at 5:01 PM
Thanks for the tips everyone, it’s all appreciated! It’s a bit daunting going from hg to mg though, but before I start on my Force Impulse I’m gonna test out all my techniques on my legend backpack (which is still unbuilt) So hopefully I’ll be able to notice what mistakes I make and fix them, I think I’ ready for it XD. Also has anyone got a general tips on handling the V-Fins, because in both my legend and my strike, I broke them and had to glue them back on (which was a pain)
@ Ahya Do nail cutters work? Because if they do, you just saved me quite a bit of cash XD
I also tried using nail files on my legend, and it didn’t sand down to well, I probably just didn’t press hard enough though.
October 3, 2009 at 6:48 PM
Yeah it works perfectly, it looks juss like a regular cutter but a bit smaller for about 8-15 bucks. Juss check out Walgreens they have a variety of jaw sizes.
As for nail files there are also a variety to select from, juss like sand paper, but it’s not as flexible and if your filing nub marks it cheap and perfect. I have a nail “buffer” i believe its called like for smoothing down surfaces. Hope this helps you, and your wallet. c:
October 3, 2009 at 6:51 PM
sorry for double post, for v-fins juss use a straight edge nail clipper and cut it at the root of the tree, this way you will have more of the tree than the fin itself to hold. then juss clip away.
October 4, 2009 at 3:11 AM
I found both MG FAZZ Gundam and EX-S Gundam, which will make me bankrupt if i were consider to buy both and how much top coat I’ll need… T_T I seriously want both…
October 4, 2009 at 7:26 PM
Hahha, well you can always buy them then wait out a bit then get top coat. Yeah i understand your eagerness I wanted to get both Nu Gundam and RX-78 2.0 but I’m gonna spend pennies for food at work, hahha. So I juss got the RX-78. :c Need another job to support my hobby.
October 4, 2009 at 9:58 PM
@Ahya
I chose to get the Sentinel FAZZ first, very rare and even the web selling it says so. EX-S is always available for order if no stock because it is being classified as “special kit” along with MG Perfect Zeong. They had the white unicorn version of Zeta also which is limited. Getting headache now…
HeroEX
lol i never cared much bout’ my MG Force Impulse, only panel lined and slapped 2 logo stickers on the shoulders (the decals looked so dull and unattracrive). I prefer to go all out when i get FAZZ, Sinanju and EX-S.
October 5, 2009 at 11:52 AM
@ Ahya Thanks for the nail buffer tip, it’ll save me lots of money ad trouble, I’ll also take your advice on the V-Fins
@EXkurogane Yea the decals do look un-attractive, I like the FAITH sticker though. I really want a Sinanju…and a Unicorn….and A Wing ver ka, but I don’t think I’m good enough yet. I chose Force Impulse mainly because it seemed reasonably straightforward to build, I like the gundam itself, and it has positive reviews.
October 5, 2009 at 8:14 PM
No problem dude. I juss wanted to offer you some cheaper alternatives. As for the Sinanju, that thing looks like it’ll take you some time to finish, not to mention a few touches of detailing. I’d recommend doing a few more MGs before tackling the Sinanju.
Where’s Z anyways? Hasn’t posted in a while… :/
October 6, 2009 at 1:28 AM
lol and we converted his comments section of a post into a forum or MSN chat…
October 6, 2009 at 1:49 AM
Too bad wordpress don’t have a chat box ^^…. unlike blogger. :D
October 6, 2009 at 6:01 AM
Hahha, well Z hasn’t complained yet. c:
October 10, 2009 at 12:15 AM
Hey Z, i rly like ur tutorial
i have a question
i have many gunplas sitting on my shelf and lately i feel like doing them some justice by adding on top coat
i was wondering, if i use top coat on my models will it affect the stickers, for example the stickers for the eyes
also which topcoat do u recomnd for matte-ing, not sure which brand to use
my gundams arnt painted, just panel lined
October 10, 2009 at 12:30 AM
Hmm… finding some way to add a chatbox here isn’t such a bad idea… seems like you guys got your answers already too ^^
Anonymous, yes it will affect your stickers. It fogs them. I mainly use Gunze Sangyo Mr. Top Coat. Tamiya works just fine also.
October 12, 2009 at 5:17 PM
Hahha kinda looking forward to that Z… I can imagine it now. “WTF yu nub, reed teh pages on teh site tehy will help juu!” Hahha all the evils of elitist and the suffering of those new to Gunpla. I feel bad already…
October 12, 2009 at 7:49 PM
I tried adding a chatbox but somehow wordpress doesn’t allow that. They do have this meebo thing but somehow its more like msn…user has to be logged on…..
October 12, 2009 at 10:37 PM
ah… just ran through the FAQ today to check things out and you’re right ^^;. Well… Everyone is free to post everywhere about anything on this blog anyway so guess a chatbox isn’t necessary at all xD.
October 13, 2009 at 6:21 AM
Hahha, I somewhat feel better now. Hahha
October 14, 2009 at 2:24 AM
I heard one of my friend said this another day. He said that to save cost, when you want to rub a color off the plastic, use Coca-Cola instead of rubbing alchohol/thinner. Any thoughts guys?
October 14, 2009 at 2:41 AM
That sounds like a prank more to me xD. First off, Coca-Cola is more expensive or about the same price as rubbing alcohol… so the saving cost part is moot. Not to mention rubbing alcohol probably works better… and you don’t have to deal with a sugary/sticky mess afterward.
October 14, 2009 at 3:27 AM
wut? Cola is more expensive than rubbing alchohol? My place here 1.5L of coke is like 0.6 usd…and 120ml of thinner is 4 usd……
October 14, 2009 at 8:42 AM
lol really? KKTE? What chemical in cola that can remove the color?? the acid?
October 14, 2009 at 9:30 AM
cocacola here is like $2 for 2 liter… and like a dollar for some rubbing alcohol ^^;
October 14, 2009 at 6:46 PM
-Exkurogane
I have no idea XD!
-Z
Whoa….1 dollar per litre….thats…intense….. I start feeling lucky that i live in malaysia XD! ARGH!!!! MY exam starts today….wish me luck guys…T.T
October 15, 2009 at 12:05 AM
GOOD LUCK!!! Believe in yourself and you’ll do great ^^
October 15, 2009 at 1:05 AM
I just finished mine (exam)!! XDXDXD Now i can work on MG Strike Noir!!
October 15, 2009 at 5:28 AM
Ordered Exia the other day, coming in Friday, but I have work that day. :c
@KKTE good luck dude. at my store a 16oz bottle of rubbing alcohol is always on sale 2/1$
October 17, 2009 at 5:35 AM
from my first gunpla I always use my nail clipper to cut parts from it’s runner..and often to remove nub too….
it’s hard to find those tools here…
Z..could U tell me further how did u paint ur gupla? it’s looks so nice and neat.. what kind of brush did u use?
October 18, 2009 at 2:59 PM
Sad to say this but… I actually don’t paint my Gunplas so I’m not confident about the way to “teach” people about it xD. I just dip the brush in paint to detail little areas here and there. The part is usually so small that it doesn’t matter how you paint it.
October 23, 2009 at 5:47 AM
i prefer to leave enough of a nub on my pieces and remove the pest layer by layer with an xacto knife leaving a seamless look, i can’t stand filing because it doesn’t leave it smooth and i don’t have the money to shell out 9999+ grit sand paper =p
you should try it some time, maybe you’ll like the technique or incorporate it with your existing one too…
October 23, 2009 at 5:53 AM
yeah, see your example on removing the pieces, i’m not sure if you’ve noticed but if you clip it as close as possible you ruin it and give it an even more noticeable nub mark because the plastic gets squeezed into the point where the clippers close, sort of turning 2 sides of a square in to the middle making a triangle… horrible effect on plastic.
i should have just said this in my post above about the technique i use to not have irritating nub marks…
sorry!
November 8, 2009 at 2:03 AM
Hi Z!
I love your tutorial tips, especially on the decals! However I have some question for you: did you ever experiment with light on your models? like fluorescent/luminescent paint, or applying metalic paint on transparent part to make them ‘shine’? I’ve tried it all but can’t get good results, I also experiment with LED lights. Can you give me some advice, or where to find help?
November 8, 2009 at 5:00 AM
Greg, check out hobbyfanatics.com.
I’m also a member there, and the site has nearly every tutorial you’ll need and a lot of tips from excellent modelers. There is even an entire topic dedicated to LED installment.
November 8, 2009 at 8:13 PM
Just got a can of top coat from Hope Depot…and I’m scared like hell. This is my first time using top coat, and frankly, I don’t really know how to use it, what to spray, what not to spray, and I’m a little bit confused about what it really does in general. Does it stiffin the joints if I spray it? Will it fog up clear peices? can i still paint the model after topcoating? …guhm, can’t believe i went outta my way to get it and now im scared to use it…mite as will try it out on a few No Grade 1/144 models first….
November 8, 2009 at 8:25 PM
Greg, Drago provided a great link. I personally haven’t tried any of the stuff you’ve mentioned before so I can’t help you at all here. ^^;
Drago17, I need to read that site more often…
Lelouch, I could answer you but since you already have the can in hand… no point in not trying it out on the 1/144 models to see what it does exactly for yourself ^^
November 9, 2009 at 2:06 AM
Z, i remember you answering this question before, but I really can’t find where, so I have to ask for your expertise again…how do I remove Top Coat (Matte)? Detergent, does not seem to work effectively, alcohol is not really effective, idustrial thinner seem to melt the plastic…I’ve really messed up my MG sword impulse, I’ve really have to clean up this kit coz it’s one of my favorites….ur opinion/advice is important for me..
November 9, 2009 at 8:26 PM
well, I tried it out on my 1/200 scale fighting action 00 Gundam…the same one you have only not in Transam. I’m the type of person who hates stickers but always paints my models…I can’t bear to see one of my models unpainted. I didn’t use a NG model because their paint job was too good and i didn’t want to ruin it if the topcoat went astray…and it did.
I sprayed it with the 00 standing up, but once I did it fell down. I just sprayed it when it was lying down and let it dry, then flipped it over and sprayed the back. However, the thing is that the top coat smeared and ruined the paint. However, it seems that only the Gundam Marker paint was affected. The paint tester paint wasn’t. But I’m not using it again because it smells horrible…how can you bear to use that stuff? It smells TOXIC! I took it into my room for a check up and it stunk up my entire room…ugh…do all your models smell like that?
I’m just gonna throw my Fighting Action 00 into a box and lock it up in my closet or something cuz it smells horrible…however, for the most part it produced promising results, giving the un-ruined paint a nice clear coat. Now if only it would not smell like toxic acid…
November 9, 2009 at 8:41 PM
lelouch, what brand and type are you using??? You should follow this general layer chart for different coatings of paint in most cases:
acrylic > enamel > lacquer
The top coat you used may have ruined your paintjob because of the substance. I’m assuming it’s lacquer, due to it being horrendous in smell, in which case it is a bad idea to spray on top of the other two types…
As for it falling down, it is wise to have it pinned to a skewer or clip, in pieces for a thorough job.
A good alternative you can find easily is Krylon. Their topcoats work well and the smell is not nearly as bad, especially if you use the low odor brand (all enamel based). I’ve used it successfully on my Sazabi, and it doesn’t ruin the paint job (I used both tamiya acrylic and gundam paint panel liner marker).
November 9, 2009 at 8:51 PM
Lelouch, I’ve never used anything from home depot before but I’m assuming your top coat is actually for house use instead of plastic? Mr. Top Coat, in a sense, actually smells kinda nice. Like cherry cough syrup or something… but yes, still has a hint of toxic xD. I spray outside so the fumes doesn’t get to me and the smell on the parts go away in less than a minute. And maybe I should’ve also answered your question too… you should spray one layer (one “slash” of the stuff across the mode), let dry, then repeat. And I never had top coat ruin my paint before.
November 10, 2009 at 7:16 PM
Omg, so much problems with topcoats, though i know lacquer, acrylic and enamel paints are different, i dunno what type of topcoat can or cannot be used on them. I switched to water-based hobby-paint last time but it is so difficult to find them.
November 20, 2009 at 1:22 AM
if i spray topcoat on the decals will it ruin it?
i got a tamiya spray can of matte top coat and it says on the can not to use ontop of decals =(
shud i try anyways?
December 8, 2009 at 12:34 AM
Very nice “walkthrough”…..
My first 2 gunpla was built with only a cutter (the one you use to cut paper) an a tweezer.
The result is not so good, and now I know why…..
thanks again for the guide.
December 8, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Hi,
Where did you get those filers at? I thought they were Tamiya’s but I did not see them. Could you possibly tell me what brand or where did you get them at?
December 8, 2009 at 3:05 PM
Anonymous, you should try it. I used Tamiya’s before and it came out fine.
badack, hope it could be of use for you ^^
Noel, I bought it at a local hobby shop a long time ago. I don’t remember the brand name sorry ^^;. It wasn’t a Japanese brand though.
December 11, 2009 at 8:02 PM
1 question, is it ok for me to use a .3 sign pen for panel lining?
cause a .3 sign pen here is cheaper than the Gundam marker used for panel lining? thanks^^
December 11, 2009 at 9:39 PM
Z, err… do you know any type of knives by Tamiya that can cut though thick or hard plactic on gunpla? Especially those ideal for modding. I’ve drafted out a plan to mod a MG Gale Strike so that I’ll have work to do during holidays and the upper legs and knees need serious modification.
I came across a tool called “Tamiya designer knife” and it’s not really expensive (around USD 11) but i don’t know whether it suits what i’m going to do. I’ve converted a NG 1/144 into a HG installing ABS joints by myself all over the kit, knees, elbows, waist etc. (haven’t completed it fully though) and cutting parts, but it comes with a price- sore hands and fingers… =.= I need better knives…
Take a look here. I don’t know what kind of knive he’s using. He’s cutting though plastics a quarter an inch thick easily!!
http://ebasenet.com/WB_progress-METEOR_P1.htm
December 11, 2009 at 9:41 PM
Err, he mentioned “kotobukiya micro saws” but i don’t really think a saw would be needed to cut kits like MG strike eh? I’m ssure you know about your MG Strike Rouge, the plastic is not as solid as newer MGs.
December 12, 2009 at 12:14 AM
Erazer, .3 is actually a bit thick for some smaller panel lines unless the ink can “flow” into the gaps and that you can clean off messes easily.
Exkurogane, that “design knife” is the exact one I use (it’s the black knife you see above in this page). It’s HELLA sharp (got filleted a few times…) but too delicate/thin/small for heavy duty work. You should look for a saw instead (or anything serrated)… an electrical one would be nice too ^^. Just my thought if I need to run down such blocks of plastic. I do use that knife to separate the fingers though.
December 12, 2009 at 1:21 AM
now that you’ve mentioned it, i think i’ll have some difficulty on the face parts of my 144 scales, i’ll check the one i saw on a local bookstore (i kinda forgot the name) it has a tip similar to a gundam marker. i’ll tell you what happened after checking it out
December 14, 2009 at 1:54 AM
nice site!!, it really save me in getting rid those obstructing nubs in my strike, any chance making a tutorial on painting gunpla??
December 15, 2009 at 7:48 PM
Can anyone recommend where to get cans of Topcoat Flat? The only ones I’ve ordered were from HLJ and it seems they’ve stopped carrying them. Halp!
December 16, 2009 at 3:16 PM
Hey, thanks for the great website and review pics :)
I had a quick question on Top Coating: DO you just take the part (arm, leg, head, chest, etc) that you want to spray and put it on a skewer or a stick and paint, or can you hold the piece and paint… I tried both methods; I had a hard time holding the part down to the stick with masking tape, and when I tried setting it down to dry some of the plastic would stick to the surface and some paint would come off. I would just like some tips please, and thanks!
December 25, 2009 at 8:15 AM
Bought a Mr hobby’s clear paint today…. Not satisfied with it. Here is the problem, when i apply it on a surface, it always leaves a clogged feel, it’s like it is not equally distributed. Help.
December 25, 2009 at 6:35 PM
I want to say it’s the temperature… not sure. I Had that happened to me with a tamiya clear red spray paint… I just clean it off and hand brush it on with my jar of clear red instead >_>
December 31, 2009 at 1:42 AM
[...] My Tools [...]
January 2, 2010 at 10:30 PM
Sorry if I’m posting the same question for the second time (since my question got buried somewhere).
Do you topcoat after adding stickers, or topcoat before adding them?
Thanks in advance.
January 3, 2010 at 12:55 AM
Topcoat is the last step after everything else.
January 4, 2010 at 2:45 AM
Have you tried using the Tamiya polishing compound? I’m not too sure what exactly it does. Does it help smooth out the plastic after you sand it with fine grit sandpaper?
I just got into modeling, so I’m new :<
January 4, 2010 at 8:22 PM
Hey Z, I was wondering do you topcoat indoors?
January 4, 2010 at 8:27 PM
arc, i’ve never used that before… sounds like hardcore material ^^;
william, nah… it’s all outdoor. I might kill myself if I use it indoor xD.
January 4, 2010 at 9:26 PM
Yeah I wasn’t sure how bad it was…it’s too cold outside for me to do it now :/
January 9, 2010 at 9:31 AM
i don’t know where else to turn.
can anyone recommend/give advice on what compressor to get and what i should be looking for in the compressor features itself?
as far knowledge, i know i won’t need to exceed 40psi. i doubt i need a moisture trap i live in las vegas, i do however know i need a regulator.
where the confusion lies is whether i really need a piston driven one or diaphragm [i know a bit about the pulsing effect since it's like a lung basically right?]
sooo yeah, what compressor should i get as a beginner and that i could keep when i gain more skills.
i know i definitely want to get an iwata revolution though.
so thanks in advance…
p.s. some links to message boards or airbrush users would be nice.
January 10, 2010 at 12:57 AM
Wish i can help you out… i have absolutely no idea about airbrushes >_<
January 12, 2010 at 1:35 AM
by the way what’s the name of your cutter and files? thanks!
January 12, 2010 at 3:58 AM
I don’t know the names of my files. The cutter’s name is Tamiya side cutter. They don’t have that many selections so you can’t miss it.
January 12, 2010 at 8:56 PM
Right.. thanks dude
appreciate the stuffs and tutorial on your site
keep it up
January 12, 2010 at 9:02 PM
please work on your blue frame astray revise?
im REALLLY craving for reviews on that
its good thing that i have something to follow before i start building my own.. LOL
thanks in advance dude kudos
March 31, 2010 at 9:40 PM
I have the feeling this guy is from the Philippines. ^^; just a thought. ^^;
January 12, 2010 at 10:21 PM
I’ll get around to it soon enough… I think
January 17, 2010 at 3:58 PM
Hi Z, thanks for the walkthrough.
I’m new to Gunpla, and was wondering if you can give me a heads up on where to buy the mr.hobby primer and topcoats and how much they usually cost?
Thanks a bunch!
January 19, 2010 at 3:50 AM
Indeed, same as Ian says, but I also want to know what the pencils and markers you use are. Like…the names and sizes, pencils, pens, etc…As all you say above is Gundam SEED markers, or whatever..hope I make sense…Thanks!
January 24, 2010 at 4:16 AM
Neat review site, man. Really, appreciate the tutorials & stuff. Helps us rookie gundam collectors amp-up our models =D
Hope you put up a Mr Hobby TopCoat gloss/matte spray tutorial soon, the whole nine yards, that’d be superb i bet!
Just got a Sinanju MG, & i guess I’ll leave topcoat for last. Lukin’ forward for your help. Thanks =3
February 3, 2010 at 7:06 PM
Okay I hate clear stickers and I suck at dry transfers. I have a motor deficiency. Are waterslides possible?
February 3, 2010 at 9:27 PM
I don’t see why they’re not. Waterslides are easier to use than the former two.
February 11, 2010 at 6:47 PM
Hey Z, I’ve wanting to ask, how come the pics of your models end up being so… immaculate?
I mean, when you leave the model in question to dry after applying the topcoat it is only natural that it catches a ton of dust/particles, right?
Do you have a special way to apply the topcoat or something then? Indoors, outdoors? Just asking because I intend to resume some gunpla stuff soon.
February 12, 2010 at 2:26 AM
Mr. Topcoat dries up really fast (in a matter of seconds… to a minute if weather sucks). I usually just take whichever part I want outside, spray it, then come back indoor right after and set in somewhere in my room (the bathroom is also nice since it is relatively dust free). I think it’s the indoor part that keeps the most of the dust away. Hope that helps ^^
February 18, 2010 at 12:45 PM
Do you use masking tape for the waterslides?
February 19, 2010 at 8:04 AM
there’s not a single scenario that I can imagine where you would need to…
February 19, 2010 at 8:49 AM
Good because one reason I fail at dry transfers is that the masking tape (that I spent 5 bucks so it would be thin) FAILS.
February 19, 2010 at 10:19 AM
scotch tape is more what you’d wanna use for securing a dry-transfer in place instead of masking tape. ^^; give that a shot, maybe it’ll work out better.
February 19, 2010 at 10:20 AM
and then I forgot to log in, oops.
February 27, 2010 at 7:46 AM
Where did you buy the file, your from the philippines right?
February 27, 2010 at 9:12 PM
at a local store. I am not from the philippines… though I am curious where you got that idea ^^;
February 28, 2010 at 12:21 AM
the san paper part i miss took the grade for the peso :)) my bad man
March 20, 2010 at 11:22 PM
[...] [...]
March 21, 2010 at 12:56 AM
Do you use airbrush or dry brush to do your painting?
March 26, 2010 at 1:28 AM
I really like your style of building…
thx for the tips. I used to just nip the nubs off while my cutter is touching the piece but now i know that im going to file mine (: haha and yes…. i do the nail scratching too to make it smooth way before i saw this website xD
March 26, 2010 at 3:15 AM
oh yeah btw… any tips on how to file it down so the things around it doesnt get scratched? cos i tried filing some “extra parts” really carefully but i always get some scratch marks on the corner parts
March 31, 2010 at 3:07 PM
When you are filing too close to the actual piece, you’ll just have to make do with a knife.
March 31, 2010 at 7:45 AM
Z,, how do you cut the fingers of your gunpla? they look great! O___O
March 31, 2010 at 3:06 PM
The key is a very sharp x-acto knife. Hold onto it between the fingers of one hand on a board (so the finger doesn’t go flying) and just cut down (no sawing, just apply brute force) and you should be able to “snap” the fingers off. The model’s hand should be facing up (backside up, palm side down)
March 31, 2010 at 4:57 PM
x-acto knife? u mean hobby knife?
March 31, 2010 at 5:31 PM
Yes…. anything that has a sharp blade.
March 31, 2010 at 8:23 AM
oh,, one more question,, do you know how to remove nub marks on trans am gloss injection plamo? i wanna buy mg exia trans am but i am afraid of messing it up X__X
March 31, 2010 at 3:10 PM
Since i don’t care for trans-am models nor do i have any, I wouldn’t know how to handle it until I see ^^;. Judging from the pic, I imagine I would need to keep a very light pink paint handy and some red for the darker parts.
March 31, 2010 at 5:49 PM
what did u use to paint the mg unicorn clear parts? brush?
March 31, 2010 at 6:01 PM
yes
April 1, 2010 at 3:27 AM
Hey Z, read your ‘building process’ and I’d have to say great job in explaining and giving tips, and yes I do agree that it’s all basically self experience, trial and error.
I just have a quick question, I understand that the finishing layers of top coat are basically just to seal everything in but do I need to do this with clear stickers? For example, the final layer of top coat is already on so should I just put the stickers on? or should i put the stickers on plus another layer of top coat?
April 3, 2010 at 7:47 PM
hey z, been following your blog for couple days now, love what you do. I just have a minor question, when you hand paint the parts, how long do you usually wait for it to dry? thanks
April 5, 2010 at 6:28 PM
For me, usually 10 to 15 minutes.
April 5, 2010 at 10:13 PM
I don’t usually “wait”, I just move on and snap out the other parts. It is usually ready by the time I cleaned everything up and ready to be snapped together.
April 5, 2010 at 3:44 AM
hey, Z. Do you mix the paints with water or just use them straight away? How about clear red paint?
April 5, 2010 at 6:27 PM
Please dont mix paint with water, they are immiscible. Mixing them together will just ruin the paint @.@… You can dilute the paint with thinner or alcohol.
It depends though, i only dilute the paint when i want it to be really light. I usually dont dilute my clear paint…. maybe that is why my clear painting always fails. Hmmmm
April 5, 2010 at 10:12 PM
^This
April 7, 2010 at 4:09 PM
gundam markers are a gunpla’s best freaking friend.
April 7, 2010 at 5:04 PM
Gundam markers suck for paint jobs unless you’re using them for little details (eyes, etc.) and even then they can get scratched off without a good topcoat.
April 7, 2010 at 6:45 PM
ITs a great substitute when one is out of paint and waiting for the summer to get their asses to Pacific Mall to get a new supply of paint.
April 8, 2010 at 1:58 AM
It’s just as irritating when i go to hobby shops, they have all kinds of paint an color, but things like rubbing alcohol and levelling thinner keeps the “out of stock” tag on it. I think the industrial grade thinners and alcohols which are easily available may be a bit too strong and maybe corrosive (judging from the strong foul smell). Now i use a type of hobby paint, acrylic but as instructed on the bottle the solvent is water. They are waterproof once dried though.
For handbrushing i think i will buy a can of tamiya grey surfacer, spray them in a bottle for handbrush-use. Paint the surfacer first then paint color so that no clumping or unevenness occur at the edges since surfacer helps paint to “attach” better to the gunpla. Don’t know if that will help me… ==
April 8, 2010 at 3:52 PM
painting is like a PITA, but hell it is worth it.
April 8, 2010 at 2:01 AM
I hate it when i go to shops they sell all types of paints and color you want, but things like rubbing alcohol & levelling thinner are labelled “out of stock” all the time.
I was thinking, i’ll buy tamiya grey surfacer, spray some in a bottle for handbrush use. Handbrush them on gunpla first befor painting so that i don’t have to worry unevenness or clumping since the surfacer improves the adhesion of the paint on the gunpla… Don’t know if that might work… ==; I always come up with weird ideas to counter my own problems.
April 8, 2010 at 2:03 AM
oops, double post again, they are the same thing… sorry (thx to my stupid internet connection)
April 8, 2010 at 3:54 PM
dude, make a tutorial on how u paint gundams cuz im like lost on the process. Do you use primer, or just apply it head-on? Do u file the excess paint? It would help man.
April 8, 2010 at 9:35 PM
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/how-to-build-master-grade-gundams/
It may be a little advanced, but it covers just about everything.
April 9, 2010 at 1:04 AM
The problem is… I DON’T paint >_>. I can’t really make a tutorial on something I usually don’t do xD. I just paint straight on with a brush. Nothing more nothing less.
April 11, 2010 at 10:27 AM
Mr Inochi…………….
i Used a Top Coat
a Tamiya Brand TS 13 on my GAT STRIKE MG w/ Decals
after a Few mins THe Decals Melted away…. =(
Where Do you THink i could buy a TOP COAT FOR A Gundam Model?????
April 11, 2010 at 2:16 PM
ebay?
April 27, 2010 at 7:28 PM
image anime ftw.
April 27, 2010 at 7:47 PM
Z, if I were to like paint with Acrylic, so i mix it with thinner, or just apply straight on? If you do mix, wahs ur ratio?
April 28, 2010 at 11:04 AM
Usually people thin it, but for me I guess it depends on the size of the surface you’re painting. Something small (say, the eyes of a Gundam) doesn’t really need thinning, but if you’re painting an entire kit then it’s probably best to thin it.
I usually do 50/50 because that’s what I read on the intarwebz, but that depends on the viscosity of your paints (some say 60/40 or other way around…).
That being said, I’m sort of against hand painting since I still get brush strokes :/
April 28, 2010 at 5:55 PM
My local hobby shop doesn’t carry Flat Blue Tamiya spray, so last resort is to hand paint it.
May 1, 2010 at 11:58 PM
I don’t really thin unless I feel my paint is too “thick” to paint on. I like them a bit more runny so I thin them. I don’t have a ratio… just mix one drop at a time until I like what I see.
April 28, 2010 at 4:52 PM
Z, which one is better for painting kits, gundam colouring marker or tamiya enamel paint?
what are the goods and bads of those two?
April 28, 2010 at 5:56 PM
Enamel, cuz markers are bad for coloring in general. its more of a quick detail thing.
May 2, 2010 at 12:01 AM
gundam markers should never be used for actual painting… they just look bad. Using them for detailing is fine though. Enamel I worked with only once so I can’t comment much on it.
May 7, 2010 at 6:11 PM
do we have to topcoat surfaces that we have painted?
on the acrylic paint’s label, it says: “allow one hour drying before RECOATING” O____O
damn, topcoat is really rare to find around here.
May 11, 2010 at 3:37 AM
Reporting in:
The use of enamel paint for painting is highly NOT recommended. I just tried it 5 minutes ago. Enamels don’t mix well with thinner, and it will become runny. When you think you make a mistake and want to wash the paint, that is when the problem starts. Washing it with water will only make the paint UNWASHABLE. Damn, I sacrificed 1 brush and 1 small plastic palette! My brush tip hardens because of the enamel clear red paint! My palette is now full of red stains. Use ACRYLICS!
May 17, 2010 at 5:06 PM
So, I used Tamiya Spray Paint, I got air bubbles. So how do i get them out and how do i strip the paint off?
May 26, 2010 at 7:20 PM
Love the site, it’s opened my eyes and it makes me want to start my own serious collection. Question, i’ve got about 3 MG models (Exia ignition/ RX78/Wing) and a Zeta PG. I’ve read reviews, tips and blogs about painting the actual Gundam but how about the small pilots that come all white? How have you attempted this or have you just been like me and been like “meh, i’ll just keep him hidden in the cockpit” any advice would be great
May 27, 2010 at 1:57 AM
oh i’m a lot worse than that. I just leave them out completely… they stay on the runner.
June 3, 2010 at 4:50 AM
Z, just want to ask you bout the panel lining, what marker do you use for the face, black tip panel marker or grey tip panel marker?? coz i can see that you used grey panel marker for the panel lines on the body, but the lines on the face is kinda darker than the other lines, so i thought you used black for the face, is that right?
June 16, 2010 at 10:50 PM
Hi, Z. want to ask about topcoat. recently i used a mr.hobby top coat clear flat (the one with grey can, and this is my first time using a topcoat) to coating my crossbone mantle. but when it dried, it made a white layer, instead a clear layer which causing dark blue in the mantle turned to white. do you know what the problem is?
and do you know how to erase a topcoat. thx
June 17, 2010 at 2:08 AM
i never used the gray one but i heard that problems many times with that type. That white layer can result from a few things:
1. you oversprayed it
2. frosting… did you sprayed in a cold temperature?
3. i think the gray one is meant to be used for painted plastic, and not straight on bare plastic… but i could be wrong on that.
I’m not sure about the gray one but the blue can i use can be removed with 99% rubbing alcohol.
June 17, 2010 at 3:35 PM
im pretty sure that u cant buy 99% alcohol. U can only buy 91.
June 17, 2010 at 5:17 PM
I have a bottle of it right next to me.
June 17, 2010 at 9:27 PM
Grocery stores where I live carry 99% and 70%…
Just dilute 99% to get 91% :D
June 17, 2010 at 11:40 PM
Just found the problem, it’s due to cold temperature.. i sprayed it right after a rain. when i try dry it under the sun, the problem solved. And those 99% alcohol also work great. i bought it at chemical supply shop. thanks.
addition from me, those grey-can also work well on unpainted model, but it make the colors just slightly brighter
June 19, 2010 at 7:33 PM
hey Z, have you use the flat topcoat of mr. super clear? its the one ih the grey can, i heard that it is lacquer type. is there any difference between mr. topcoat and mr. super clear?
June 20, 2010 at 9:57 PM
Sorry. no idea.. never used it before heh.
June 23, 2010 at 3:05 AM
regarding topcoat, how can i say that enough spraying is enough?
June 27, 2010 at 5:17 PM
All I have are sidecutters,top coat,and a filer.Is that enough?
June 28, 2010 at 6:13 PM
were can i buy filers in the philippines? are I’m a newbie just bought my first kit last week and It’s still in stock.
June 28, 2010 at 11:18 PM
hobby stores or hardware stores should have a bunch if you have any of those around?
June 29, 2010 at 8:04 AM
If you live on the Metro Manila area go to Harrison Plaza, Look for JMN’s Hobby Shop on the 2nd floor, there you will see gunpla, car kits, tools and paint. It’s a good but a bit cramp place due to their stocks.
June 28, 2010 at 9:51 PM
Um…Z? Does topcoat shorten your life and increase your risk for getting cancer and other medical diseases?
June 28, 2010 at 11:17 PM
Of course… if you inhale a lot in every time you use it. Same goes for paint.
But so does living and doing just about everything else so I’m not too concerned =P
June 29, 2010 at 8:12 PM
wow…you’re one of them really carefree people, aren’t cha? First ime I found out about possibly getting cancer because of painting, I couldn’t sleep at night…
But you seem alright, despite the fact that you topcoat like crazy…I assume ur perfectly healthy with no serious medical diseases?
July 20, 2010 at 12:42 AM
i wouldn’t call myself perfectly healthy… I am about as athletic as lelouch…
July 19, 2010 at 11:27 AM
Hey Z,
when you panel line with your gundam markers, does your ink bleed when you spray it with matte top coat?
July 20, 2010 at 12:40 AM
nope. not at all.
July 21, 2010 at 3:16 PM
hmm, seems like it really depends on what type of topcoat you use. thanks i’ll try out the flat mr hobby topcoat.
July 23, 2010 at 9:57 PM
*sigh* being patient is almost impossible for me…
I’ve recently gotten the hang of dry transfer decals, but I’m always afraid that they’re gonna come off because they don’t seem to stay on as well as dry transfers.
For this reason, I’m planning on picking up some Mr. Mark setter, but I just have a few questions about that tool…
1.) Is Mr. Mark Setter like topcoat? Will it come out clear after application?
2.) After drying, will it hurt to apply some more coats on top?
3.) How much should be applied at once? Does it depend on the decal?
July 25, 2010 at 11:43 PM
1. it will clear but it is not top coat… for sure
2. i never applied more than one layer
3. Just one brush across the whole decal will do the job. I think more can actually ruin the decal but i haven’t gone that far yet…
July 25, 2010 at 2:21 AM
i have a tip for you it’s called: piece by piece Detailing and Topcoating.
well i don’t really have gundam models ( soon i’ll have) but i help my friend when building one. and yes i know it’s costy on topcoat but it bring out the best of the model.
July 25, 2010 at 11:42 PM
Depending on the parts, I do that sometimes but generally I find spraying completed section by section works best and most time efficient.
July 26, 2010 at 3:11 AM
anyway, can’t you help me what to buy first.
a kyrios and arios or astray blue frame second L and vent savior? either way i will buy stands for both (not to mention a can of topcoat and a gundam marker). oh which of the pairs or if ya want suggest me a pair!
~menroko
July 26, 2010 at 3:14 AM
oh yeah i forgot there all 1/100
July 28, 2010 at 9:01 AM
Save up some money and get a MG model or two. If you have enough for two 1/100 models + topcoat and Gundam Marker, you can easily afford a MG like the Wing Zero Custom or even the Strike Freedom.
July 29, 2010 at 1:05 AM
well i don’t like wing zero custom my friend already warned me of the con’s and the cons are really bad. as for strike freedom the hobby-shop here has no stock. plus i more of a fan gundams that transform in to fighter jets. but thanks for the suggestion.
~menroko
August 26, 2010 at 1:06 AM
Z, just wanna ask if you can mix tamiya paint x-22 and x-16 acrylic. thank you so much.
September 2, 2010 at 8:28 AM
hey Z just want to ask if how to make a white titanium finish, because i want to customize my other gundams into titanium finish, do you also blue titanium finish, tnx men!